Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

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JScoles

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by JScoles » Tue Apr 16, 2002 1:08 pm

What is matter? Never Mind.
What is mind? No Matter.

ABTH Will Odel contridicted himself many times about what he did and didn't see. In the 1924 report she says he saw them with the O2 on. Much later said differently and contridicted himself again.????

I would like to think they were going strong to the summit and made it but if one looks at the simple facts that Mallory was a heavy smoker (rarly stated in most books but he was a pipe smoker and took over 2lbs of tabaco with him), was dehydrated and they left late and the weather closed in so I doupt they made it to the top.

I am also a traditionist and love to go climbing in tweed, school ties and hobnails I say bring back the good old days.

One funny thing I found reading about Mallory was he was a hotshot who really disturbed the Climbing Establishment by going in the Alps without a guide, rock climbing just for fun without reaching the peak, the absurd notion of training for a climb and of of basically debasing climbing turning climbing into an ungentalmanly persuit. Had it not been the incistance of some Alpine Club members here would never of been chosen but it was between him and a "Working class" (was on the first expidition but I can't remember his name, was a very good ice/cold weather climber) chap so they went with the devil they knew.

Funny what comes around goes around.

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mconnell

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by mconnell » Wed Apr 17, 2002 1:25 pm

> Mallory was a heavy smoker

So were most of the early high altitude climbers. Smokers have a lower rate of AMS for some unknown reason.

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marcminish

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by marcminish » Wed Jan 22, 2003 4:57 pm

Anybody read the book Ghosts of Everest about this subject? There are four possible alternatives about what happened to these men presented in the book. Very interesting and with tantilizing clues.

My own thought is that Mallory & Irvine made it to the top since Mallory's wife's photo was not found among the papers on his body though he was known to have been carrying it. He had planned on leaving it at the summit. Just my opinion.

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William Marler

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by William Marler » Wed Jan 22, 2003 5:21 pm

Interesting. I gave that book to someone for a Christmas present a couple of years back. Never got to borrow it or read it yet. Looking forward to one day. Cheers

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Diego Sahagún

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by Diego Sahagún » Fri Apr 25, 2003 10:00 pm

May be if the camera of Mallory would be found we wouldn't be talking about the 50th Anniversary of Everest now. The next year it would be the 80th Anniversary.

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Diego Sahagún

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by Diego Sahagún » Fri Apr 25, 2003 10:15 pm

Joescheppaeq:

"Mummery went to the Himalayas with Collie and Hastings, and they were joined by Bruce and two Gurkhas, Raghobir and Goman Singh. They chose Nanga Parbat as their goal because it was reasonably accessible and big, but the area was, of cours, largely unknown. It seems likely that they underestimated the scale of the climbing, and particularly Mummery, judging from his letters home - though this may have been deliberate playing down to comfort his wife. After various reconnaissances, and an attempt on the Diamir Face, the party decided to move to the Rakhiot valley on the other side of the mountain: Collie and Hatings to go round with the porters, Mummery and the two Gurkhas to try a new pass over the intervening ridges. They set off on 24 August 1895, but when Collie and Hastings arrived at Rakhiot, there was no sign of Mummery. Despite intense search, Mummery and the two Gurkhas were never seen again, and it is generally presumed that they were overwhelmed by an avalanche".

Today have past 107 years from that expedition, more than a century!

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camp-1

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by camp-1 » Mon May 12, 2003 12:58 pm

He Diego read the book "lost on Everest the search for Mallory and Irvine by Peter firstbrook . here are the numbers to order : i.s.b.n 90-243-7630-0 or try . N.U.G.I. 641, 470 B.C.C. books. just walk to your local book store.
And to answer your question : yes they (or at least Mallory ) made it to the summit. Hillary eat your heart out

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Diego Sahagún

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by Diego Sahagún » Mon May 12, 2003 5:02 pm

camp-1, there're many books about the expedition of Mallory and Irvine to Everest in 1924 but I still don't know what's is the most credible.

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camp-1

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by camp-1 » Mon May 12, 2003 6:46 pm

just as marcminnish say's the book leaves only 4 options. but realy , wouldn't you go on if you knew it would probably be , after being there so much and climbing so high 8350 m , the last time he would ever see the mountain again. i know i would

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Martin Cash

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by Martin Cash » Tue May 13, 2003 9:10 pm

<i>I don't think either of them had the skill to have climbed the second step.</i>

Exactly, according to a presentation given by Eric Simonson, neither Mallory nor Irvine had ever climbed rock at 5.10 before. Conrad Anker jammed the crack next to the ladder and rated it 5.10 a couple years ago. Climbing rock more difficult than you ever had, above 8,000 meters, with huge gloves and boots on, after dropping your oxegen equipment, badly dehydrated = not very likely.

<i>Mconnell - yeah right, it makes no odds as they didn't come back down but you are totally wrong on one point.

Mallory absolutely did have the ability.</i>

What are you basing this information on? Remember, Conrad Anker is the only person to ever climb the second step. He stated it was <b>extemely</b> difficult given the altitude and temperatures, and he is one of the best rock climbers ever.

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JScoles

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by JScoles » Wed May 14, 2003 9:48 am

We are assuming the step was not filled with snow.

If the setp was filled with snow it is a very simple snow climb.

As a matter of fact I remember reading a Spanish expidition who did the second step and only realized it well after they had climbe up and over it.

As for it being a 5.10 Anken has raised his rating and opinion somwhat over the years as I remember him saying it was nothing more than a 5.8 and well within the ability of Mallory. Hmm. lets make it sound harder so I will look better???

Cheers

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Deb

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by Deb » Fri May 23, 2003 3:58 am

How about the 70 y/o Japanese man who just summited Everest? What's up with that?

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barry

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by barry » Fri May 23, 2003 2:07 pm

yup

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Diego Sahagún

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by Diego Sahagún » Wed Dec 15, 2004 12:17 am

<a href=//www.everestnews2004.com/malloryandirvine2004/stories2004/xijing12142004.htm>Mallory and Irvine The Final Chapter: Xu Jing</a>

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desainme

 
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

by desainme » Wed Dec 15, 2004 1:48 am

I heard it was the second Chinese party that installed the ladder, So at least 2 Chinese climbers did the step before Anker. I thought one did the step in stocking feet and bare hands suffering ill effects because of it

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