Hi All,

First post here. I'm headed to Glacier National Park in early September and I'd like to do one of the 10,000 foot peaks. Which of the peaks is the easiest from a technical difficulty/exposure point of view?

I'm not that concerned about access (I don't mind doing a multi-night trip,) or distance or elevation gain. I just want to choose the mountain with the least technical difficulty/exposure to maximize my chance of successfully hitting my goal of climbing a 10,000 foot mountain during my short trip.

FWIW, I'm an experienced at scrambling, hiking and backcountry camping in British Columbia.

I'm not sure how our Moderate Class 3 Scrambles compare to a GMS Class 3(III).
http://www.summitpost.org/glacier-natio ... ems/174579

Thanks in advance for any pointers.

I'll stick my neck out and say that Siyeh via the South Slope Route is probably the easiest 10,000 ft. peak in the park. It is certainly logistically the easiest.

Class 3 scrambles in GNP should not be a problem for anyone experienced in scrambling on poor rock in the BC Rockies.

Route page here:

http://www.summitpost.org/south-slope-route/443654

Thanks. That one was currently at the top of my list. Is it easier than Mount Jackson?

I'm not worried about logistics. We want to do an overnight hike at some point in the trip anyway so it's ok if we need to do an overnight trip to gain access to a peak.

Re my experience: I'm from the coast but I think we still have enough bad rock to give me a preview of the conditions.

I have not climbed Jackson.

You might want to contact Paul Klenke - he just returned home from a trip on which he did both Siyeh and Jackson. He would also have up to date route information.

http://www.summitpost.org/users/klenke/1535

Jackson is pretty straightforward via the Northeast ridge, easy route-finding, no crazy exposure, and relatively stable rock. But I've haven't climbed Siyeh to directly compare. The approach may be the biggest difference. Note to others: The NE ridge on Jackson can be sketchy if there's still snow on the route (before mid-July?), but now until the first major storm should be fine.

Maybe do both and let us know your opinion? A strong group could crank out both in a day (each).

Since you are interested in making it a trip, I suggest the SE Spine Route of Mt Stimson!! The climbing is the easiest of any of the six 10,000' peaks in GNP and you'll never forget the trip in and out to reach this seldom visited summit. There are great camping sites by Buffalo Woman Lake. If you are going solo, it would be better to do Sieyh or Jackson as they are much easier to reach and not too difficult if you do the standard routes. Also, you are less likely(in my experience) to encounter a grizzly on those two, although it would not be unusual to see one on your way to any of the 10,000' peaks...even on or near the summits.

First to answer the original question:
Siyeh is definitely the easiest of the 10,000 foot peaks to climb in Glacier. It has the easiest approach and the least amount of exposure if climbed via the standard route.

Jackson has a longer approach and a little more exposure along the ridge where one has to traverse some on the north side. If climbing in september make sure there is no new snow there.

Grizzlies may be encountered anywhere in Glacier. Do not assume that you will not see any bears while climbing more remote peaks. I've seen grizzlies on the south face of .stimson just a short distance off the ridge that more climbers use these days to reach the summit.

Jackson is a very long day-- about 20 miles and about 5000' from Gunsight Lake, not to mention the big dip the trail takes at the start. It might be better to try getting a permit to camp at the lake, which is six miles in. In September, I think the one-night stay limit does not apply.

Siyeh can be a long day but is the easiest to do in a day trip.

All the others really are not feasible as a day climb, and you'd likely want to stay at least two nights in the backcountry.

I agree with most of the comments here. I am certainly not an expert on all things GNP.

Here is what I did recently with partner Sergio as pertains to 10k peaks in the park:
Cleveland (8/6), Jackson (8/8), Siyeh (8/10). I have not done the other three 2kP peaks in the park so will not comment on them other than to say that Stimson is considered by many to be the most difficult.

If I were to rank the three I have done in terms of logistics (for an American):
Cleveland most logistically difficult, Jackson, then Siyeh
Cleveland can be done by staying in the U.S. the entire time from the car but it is "easiest" to get it from a start in Canada taking the boat down Waterton Lake into the U.S.

If I were to rank the three in terms of technicalities while climbing:
Cleveland least technical, then Siyeh, then Jackson
This is for an August ascent. As a snow-laden or snow-impeded ascent the ordering would likely be different. Cleveland's most difficult stuff is 98% Class 2 and 2% Class 3. Siyeh via the South Slope/Face is a more involved route-finding issue for the first half but can be teased out. Jackson is a real a$$kicker as a day-trip from the car (camp permits at Gunsight Lake can be a problem) and, as guidebook author Edwards said, the NE Ridge feels like it goes on forever due to the often tedious looseness of the rock underfoot. But all in all the NE Ridge was the most interesting rock climbing of our trip: Class 2 (65%), Class 3 (35%), Class 4 (5%) with minor Class 5 for fun that can be avoided.

If I were to rank the three in terms of climb duration on foot from the car:
Siyeh quickest, Jackson, Cleveland
Siyeh we did car-to-car in about 8 hours but with ample time for summit gawking
Jackson we did car-to-car in about 13 hours. We spent all of 8 minutes at the top on account of the threat of thunderstorms, which never materialized. Plus it was extremely hazy that day due to forest fire smoke. We also lost about an hour because we had to wade the outlet of Gunsight Lake both ways because they were in the process of building a new bridge there.
Cleveland took us 4 days car-to-car with all of the logistics (like where we got permits and for what nights, boat schedule, etc.).

This particular category may appeal to your wife more than you...
If I were to rank the three in terms of culiseta longiareolata:
Cleveland, Jackson, Siyeh
Horrid, absolutely horrid they were at a) Stoney Indian Pass in the morning of our climb, and b) while hiking the trail back to Goat Haunt
For Jackson they were worst on the initial trail down to Deadwood Falls and then at Gunsight Lake
I don't recall them at all during our Siyeh climb.

Your best chance of success for these three is definitely Mt. Siyeh. We talked to a guy who did the West Ridge from Piegan Pass in 8 hours round trip from the car. He reported it being mostly easy but one cliff band cliffed them out on descent. They had to climb back up a couple hundred feet to find the way through.

Regarding grizzlies, we saw a live one eating a dead one (more or less) at 10,000 feet on Mt. Cleveland. We then saw a live one far below us in Preston Park as we were descending Siyeh through the routefinding section. Strangely, this sighting occurred mere minutes after coming upon (like within 30 ft) the largest mountain goat we had ever seen!

Sergio and I will be going back for the other three some day.

I agree with the comments above, Jackson,or Siyeh. FUN FACTOR, (JACKSON) HANDS DOWN. can be done car to car in 10/12 hours. Or camping at Gunsight lake.

Gunsight Lake is hard to get a permit for in July and August, but it should be a lot easier after Labor Day, especially if you choose a weekday. But get to the issuing office a half-hour ahead of time; the popular sites were filling within a few minutes after opening time each day this summer, so I wouldn't take chances.

Warning: Thread Drift...

Klenke wrote:This particular category may appeal to your wife more than you...
If I were to rank the three in terms of culiseta longiareolata:
Cleveland, Jackson, Siyeh
Horrid, absolutely horrid they were at a) Stoney Indian Pass in the morning of our climb, and b) while hiking the trail back to Goat Haunt
For Jackson they were worst on the initial trail down to Deadwood Falls and then at Gunsight Lake
I don't recall them at all during our Siyeh climb.

Interesting. I was out there about three weeks around the same time as you, including at Stoney Indian Pass, and they hardly bothered me at all anywhere. It was the damn flies that wouldn't leave me alone all summer long.

In fact, the worst mosquitoes of the summer for me, and I was in skeeter paradises such as the Sierra Nevada, Greater Yellowstone, Glacier, and the Sawtooths this summer, were, strangely, in Red Rock Canyon after a day of rain. They were even pestering me atop Mescalito and Red Cap!

The OP is coming in September. Forget the bugs. They'll be gone.

To beat a dead horse...Siyeh, Jackson, Cleveland. The other three are all pretty similar in terms of difficulty but are more remote. Class 3 in Glacier is just like class three all around the world. @Peter...jackson can be done in 6 hours car to car and much faster by a better athlete than me!!!

bfrench wrote:...jackson can be done in 6 hours car to car and much faster by a better athlete than me!!!

All Righty then, when does the race start?

Thanks all! Incredibly valuable advice.

We've decided on Siyeh for our first 10,000 foot peak. Because it's just a day trip, we will have an easier time choosing the best weather day.

My partner and I will each by carrying a can of bear spray throughout the park.