East Coast Climbing

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Eastern US. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Eastern US Climbing Partners section.
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advcomrade

 
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East Coast Climbing

by advcomrade » Wed May 04, 2016 6:18 am

Hey guys!
Moved out to Montana last fall, and have gotten really into climbing! Next week I'm flying out to Vermont for the summer. I've never heard of the East being known for its climbing, but does anyone know of places to at least stay in practice?

Cheers!
Erik

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nartreb

 
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Re: East Coast Climbing

by nartreb » Wed May 04, 2016 3:39 pm

I don't know Vermont well, since it's relatively remote from me, but the Northeast is where lots of big names got their start.

Vermont has lots of great ice, but not in the summer. There are undoubtedly rock routes too... ah, here we go:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/vermont/105891603

If that doesn't look spectacular enough, you can always look a little farther afield. Remember that Northeastern states are tiny. You won't mind driving to New Hampshire or the Adirondack region of New York for a weekend.

A few areas you should know about, with high concentrations of good climbing, comprehensive guide books, and easy road access:
-Cannon Cliffs (NH): big-wall (1000') trad climbing
-Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledges ( NH): multi-pitch trad, including some run-out slabs
-Rumney (NH): sport climbing
-Shawangunks "Gunks"(NY): Endless trad crags, two to three pitches tall, on incredible rock.

For alpine, Huntington Ravine on Mt Washington, NH is well-known. There are lots of backwoods possibilities in Vermont and New York (Maine too) if you're up for adventure, but you may have trouble finding reliable beta. Mountainproject is often your best source.

Finally, beware of "old school" grading...

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cbeats

 
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Re: East Coast Climbing

by cbeats » Fri May 06, 2016 2:25 pm

Depending on where you are in Vermont the Adirondacks might be the closest area w/ a lot of climbing. Just develop a fondness for black flies if you're going early in the season.

All the areas mentioned in the previous post will definitely keep you busy for a summer (or a lifetime). And yeah, Mountainproject will have more info about technical climbs.


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