1) Does anyone know what impact the recent eruptions from Tungurahua have had on climbing conditions on the big peaks other than excluding Chimbo for the near future? Other than the Ilinizas we'll be going to Cotopaxi and possibly Cayambe or Antisana.
2) The only peak I might need two ice tools would be Iliniza Sur, should I bring my second BD viper or leave it at home and use one with my traditional axe (65cm Raven Pro).

Thanks for the input, I'll be heading to Quito the end of October.

Woodie

1) Does anyone know what impact the recent eruptions from Tungurahua have had on climbing conditions on the big peaks other than excluding Chimbo for the near future? Other than the Ilinizas we'll be going to Cotopaxi and possibly Cayambe or Antisana.

I've been told that only Chimborazo has been affected, and at this time the others are all OK (except for Tungaraua itself!). You still leaving next month? Let me know how it goes if you wouldn't mind. Sounds like we're attempting Cotochachi, Iliniza Norte, Iliniza Sur, Cotopaxi, Antisana, and Chimborazo next Jan. If Chimborazo isn't in good condition, we'll attempt Cayambe instead.

Have a good trip, and good luck!

Scott, thanks- that's what I heard from our guide service, but I don't like to trust one source. Yes, I'm still leaving the end of October; I'll be sure to post a TR after I get back.

Woodie

For Iliniza Sur, a Raven Pro + BD Viper is fine. There's only one short pitch of steepish ice and it's usually hacked out. No worries. We had really good snow conditions when I did it. We only needed one rappel past the steep pitch and the rest we down-climbed, facing out. It's only about 45 degrees.

Sounds great- thanks Tom!

Cheers,

Woodie

I am also heading to Ecuador in January to climb. I am uninformed about eruptions on Tungurahua and the resulting negative impact on Chimborazo. What effect has Tungurahua had on Chimborazo and what complications could exist in January?
Thanks.

There is also an important factor on mountain conditions this year : El Niño.
It is announced as a "mild" one but it can still bring more rain fall in Ecuador, therefore more snow on the summits.
A few details on : http://edition.cnn.com/2006/WEATHER/09/13/weather.nino.reut/index.html

Myzantrope wrote:There is also an important factor on mountain conditions this year : El Niño.
It is announced as a "mild" one but it can still bring more rain fall in Ecuador, therefore more snow on the summits.
A few details on : http://edition.cnn.com/2006/WEATHER/09/13/weather.nino.reut/index.html

Good info. Thanks. Also, regarding my eariler question, I found the answer in a different thread. Thaks again for everyone putting up good info.

just returned from a successful trip down there. people are still climbing chimborazo, we could see tungurahua blowing ash from nearby summits, but apparently it hasn't all been headed to chimbo. we skipped it b/c of that as well. an ecuadorian guide friend we were with was headed that way with clients this week, so it's still OK.

when asked he said the el nino wasn't a huge factor, surprising to me he said most of the weather actually comes out of the east, from the amazon. i thought there to be no more precip than a previous trip i was on 2 years ago, during a non el nino year