Anyone done Fremont East (glacier) Route?

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Anyone done Fremont East (glacier) Route?

by skidoo1066 » Wed Mar 29, 2017 4:16 pm

Fremont Peak's (the Winds Rivers one) page doesn't have info on doing a glacier route. Have any of you done it and could provide info on it?

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Jesus Malverde

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Re: Anyone done Fremont East (glacier) Route?

by Jesus Malverde » Thu Aug 17, 2017 6:49 pm

You ask a really interesting question.
As no one has (yet) answered your query, I'd thought I'd try to jump in.
Note: I haven't done Fremont and have only seen it from a distance, but it's been on the bucket list for some time.

I realize you may have already done some/all of this, and what is below may not be much help, but here goes.

- Some dedicated Google Fu doesn't bring up anything on an Fremont Peak east face direct or east face variation. Note: I didn't spend a whole lot of time on this, and I might have missed something.

-Joe Kelsey's (2nd edtion, pgs. 174-177) book doesn't mention anything specific on east face routes.

- Bonney's book (1977, 3rd revised edition, pg. 417) has this, but I don't think it's really about any specific east face route:
"Rte 3. SE Ridge (called E in some accounts). I, 5.0, 1 asc 8 Aug1924, C. Blaurock, H. and Mrs. Buhl, A.R. Ellingwood. First climb by other than Rte 1. From Bull L Cr they crossed Fremont Gl finding dead grasshoppers in such numbers that "the air was as infected." From Titcomb Lks, climb to Sacagawea-Fremont col. Turn S, across eastern slopes of Upper Fremont Gl to point midway on SE Ridge. Cross bergschrund and climb snow up to SE ridge, then traverse the 2 gendarmes and up to the summit.

Variation. I, 4, 1 desc 14Aug1936, W.D. Howe, Thelma Bonney, Helen Spalding, K.A. Henderson. From Indian Pass (187) circle northwesterly across Knife Point Gl, climbing a steep rotten couloir to gain Upper Fremont Gl. Then as in Rte 3 to summit. (Descent: 8 hrs)."

- Apparently (and perhaps oddly) American Alpine Journal's online search doesn't reveal anything specific about any east face direct/variation route(s) on Fremont Peak:

Have you tried contacting Joe Kelsey directly and asking him?
I think you may be able to contact him through Falcon Press.
Globe Pequot
246 Goose Lane
Guilford, CT 06357

Also, there may be some Old School folks in Jackson or outlying areas that may have something buried in the back of their heads. You may be able to work the Carabiner Telegraph to get some contacts; the climbing community is closer/tighter than we sometimes realize. FWIW, the current folks (and alumni/retirees) over at Exum/JHMG may be able to get you an answer, lead or contact.
If you haven't done so already, you could post over at SuperTopo's forums and see if you get any bites as well.

Hopefully there is a simple answer out there and someone with some knowledge will see this thread and jump in here.
Good luck and if you make an recon/attempt/ascent please post back your picts, findings/TR, etc.
P.S. I'll ask around some of my contacts going forward and see if I can't come up with something more substantive. Will post back here if I find out anything.

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