Hello everyone. I've been wanting to have a go at the Grandes Jorasses for some time but I can only break away in August. this year. Will the standard routes be in any shape that time of year? If it is as warm as the last two summers, I am not optimistic. I appreciate any feedback SP members can provide. Thanks!

You can speak with the Ref Boccalatte mantainer.

Refuge number +39 0165-844070

Mantainer of the refuge +39 015-2522040

2003 - The routes I did in Switzerland were very bare due to the heat-wave that hit Europe.

2004 - August was dreary and wet whenever I tried to climb.

I hope you have luck as the conditions seem to be dependant on the shape of the season in general but mostly on the conditions during the week you wish to climb. Good Luck! - NOAH

The glacier from the Boccalatte up to the beginning of the Reposoir is right now in seriously messed up conditions (even with decent snow cover), and so this part of the approach may be incredibly time consuming (but still possible).

Seen from below, the traverse of the great couloir looks ok now, but God only knows how will be in August.

As usual, check on the Courmayeur guide bureau for informations on the standard route. The phone is on the Grandes Jorasses page.

I know this is an older post but I just wanted to make some corrections and give additional pointers. The telephone at the hut is only operational from the end of june to the begining of Sept while the hut is open. The number in the origional post is correct. Our mobile phone is +39 338 94 78 838. We are in Italy from mid-april to mid-october. Outside these times we can be contacted by e-mail; baogame@hotmail.com.

Concerning the climbing of the Jorasses in august: early august is best. The weather in late august can take a turn towards winter but there are always fewer people then. We did suffer glacial damage below the reposoir in 2003 but not as badly as in other places around the Mt. Blanc. It requires a bit of zigzaging to get through the lower reaches of the planpincieux glacier which can add bit of time to any time given in guidebooks. Most books rate the climb an AD but it is leaning more towards the D side of things especially in august. Weekends in august should be avoided if you are interested in a tranquil climb. As with most huts in the alps, always call if you want to sleep the night and/or eat a meal. In order of proficiency; we speak Italian, English, French, Spanish, Portugese.

Luke & Luciana, Gestore Rifugio Boccalatte