Hey guys and gals.

Just had a few question about building my trad rack. I've been climbing Devil Towers on the belay end of the climb and looking to start leading the lower end routes. "Durance" 5.6 - 5.8.. 8 pitches.. crack. "El cracko" 5.8.. 3 pitches... crack. I've got some advise from a couple people I climb with. Already have 10 quick draws, Set of cams 0.3-3, 10 wire biners, 4 locking biners, 2 wire gate ovals and a couple size 5 cams. I won't be attempting these climbs till i'm a more confident climber this summer. I'm just looking for a little help in building a basic rack for now. I want a little head start, doe to its a little expensive to build lol. What do you guys keep on your racks? Anyone done the tower and wouldn't mind sharing what you used?

My take on the beggining trad rack:

Set of wired stoppers (later you can/will double some of them)

set of SLCDs. Make sure you get full spectrum of sizes from small to large. Again later you might get a few more in mid sizes. Buy a whole set if you can.

3 small TCUs or equivalent for thin cracks

biners on all the SLCDs, 15 biners extra, one (or two) lockers.

8-10 full length draws (over the shoulder, I like to knot them myself so I can use them rapping etc but sewn ones are ok too).

4-5 quick draws, one of these with locking biners

cleaning tool, small knife, belay/rap device, good harness, helmet.

You could buy a full set of Hexes instead of the SLCDs, but it might be cheaper in the long run to spend the money and buy cams right away.

Color everything so you can mix the rack with your partner's gear and don't have to fight over it after the climb...

BTW I would consider the above as a general starting rack for any trad area in Western US, not just Devil's Tower.

asmrz wrote:My take on the beggining trad rack:

Set of wired stoppers (later you can/will double some of them)

set of SLCDs. Make sure you get full spectrum of sizes from small to large. Again later you might get a few more in mid sizes. Buy a whole set if you can.

3 small TCUs or equivalent for thin cracks

biners on all the SLCDs, 15 biners extra, one (or two) lockers.

8-10 full length draws (over the shoulder, I like to knot them myself so I can use them rapping etc but sewn ones are ok too).

4-5 quick draws, one of these with locking biners

cleaning tool, small knife, belay/rap device, good harness, helmet.

You could buy a full set of Hexes instead of the SLCDs, but it might be cheaper in the long run to spend the money and buy cams right away.

Color everything so you can mix the rack with your partner's gear and don't have to fight over it after the climb...

BTW I would consider the above as a general starting rack for any trad area in Western US, not just Devil's Tower.

Thanks man, Really appreciate it. I'll be doing a lot of climbing outside the tower also. So the input will be put to practice.

summitfever1990, you are welcome. If you need specifics on any of this, PM me.

I personally really like the ball nuts. They are also great for smaller cracks.

BTW...Devils Tower is one of my top goals for this summer if you're looking for partners.

Like Alois said, I've ended up doubling up on good number of pieces. I find myself using a ton of .5-2 cams, and a ton of the mid size tri cams. I also have doubled up on BD stoppers sizes 5-9. Doesn't hurt to have some of the micro stoppers but keep in mind they're primarily to be used for aid climbing. I'll also use them for directional placements/minimizing walking on routes where pro can be sketchy. For longer routes that tend to wander, I love the larger slings that you can adjust to length......really saves your butt on rope drag. Sounds like you have a great start.

If you are doing el cracko make sure you bring a ton of gear. Lots of # 3's i have heard. The pitches are very long and there is a hanging belay in the middle. The Durrance is a easier 1st time route. The pitches are a lot shorter, and its a bit less exposed.