How to rate friction climbs?

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
User Avatar

Posts: 159
Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2004 4:37 pm
Thanked: 3 times in 2 posts

How to rate friction climbs?

by WalksWithBlackflies » Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:43 pm

Two weekends ago I had only my second climbing experience on routes that have been rated. Prior to that, all of my ascents have been free climbs on backcounty Adk slides which I merely assumed topped off at Class 4. Based on the rated routes I recently climbed, I now realize that some of these slide pitches have been low to mid Class 5. I also realize there is a big difference between a 5.4 friction and a 5.4 vertical climb (at least to me). So I was wondering for future reference, is there a basic set of rules for rating friction climbs?

User Avatar

Posts: 2215
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 10:45 pm
Thanked: 178 times in 149 posts

by nartreb » Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:54 pm

short answer: no.

Don't assume there's a clear distinction between fourth and fifth class, either.

Well, there is one guideline: a 5.6 friction climb tends to be steeper (or on a more slippery rock type) than a 5.3 friction climb.

User Avatar

Posts: 2566
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2002 10:06 am
Thanked: 16 times in 10 posts

by rpc » Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:59 pm

is there a basic set of rules for rating friction climbs?

yes, do some established friction climbs & you'll know what your new route should be roughly rated.

User Avatar

Posts: 600
Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 9:08 pm
Thanked: 21 times in 17 posts

by welle » Wed Jun 16, 2010 9:44 pm

^^^ what rpc said, especially get on classics, i.e. routes established by Fritz Wiessner and alikes. Also, I think by 'free climbing' you meant 'free soloing' or unroped travel.

no avatar
The Chief

Thanked: time in post

Re: How to rate friction climbs?

by The Chief » Mon Oct 11, 2010 3:26 pm

Shet, Fk, Motherfker and Fk That.....

User Avatar

Posts: 4531
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:01 am
Thanked: 1334 times in 907 posts

Re: How to rate friction climbs?

by mrchad9 » Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:31 pm

The Chief wrote:Shet, Fk, Motherfker and Fk That.....

You need to work on your spelling skills.

Return to General


  • Related topics
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests