In Praise of Mt. Shasta - Hotlum Bolam, for the fun of it!

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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by jackstraw0083 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 3:57 pm

Very cool! When did this adventure take place?

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by rhyang » Thu Mar 25, 2010 3:17 pm

Shasta Mountain Guides taught me basic mountaineering, glacier travel / crevasse rescue and alpine ice climbing in 2004. Good folks, highly recommended.

Some HBR pics of mine from last June, around the first day of summer -

Funky clouds over Corning .. we drove up during a thunderstorm

Trailhead the next morning

Weather starting to move in as we headed up to high camp

A break in the clouds near Northgate

We kept heading up to Marine's Camp (~10800')

We pitched our tents, got dinner cooked and then the whiteout turned into thunder and snow mixed with light rain. I wasn't sure what to expect the next morning, but at 3am I peeked out and saw stars in the sky. Looked clear. It's a go !

Next morning we headed out at 4am or so .. stopped for a break

Low clouds gathered and roiled, but stayed below 10000' the whole day


At "The Step" around 13000', with the Hotlum Headwall on the left

From ~13500'

The weather became completely clear. The Mountain from our camp after we got down

As we packed up and headed back to the car we noticed at treeline that things had gotten kinda snow overnight -- first day of summer remember ?

I've been up and down that route several times, it's a lot of fun. IMO The best time to go is in late spring (whenever Northgate trailhead opens) into July. Unlike the south side routes which melt out later in the season, HBR and many other north side routes tend to ice up.

You will also likely see a big sign at the trailhead about the bergschrund. It's no joke. The route page on SP has some pictures showing how to traverse around the 'schrund. You cannot see it from above, so you should generally not glissade the route until you get below the 'schrund.

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