My wife and I took the bullet train to Huashan from Xi'an, stopping en route to Beijing. I've got to say that unless you're planning to stay at the top of the mountain I think the people that do this in a day trip from Xi'an have got it right. We stayed the night in Huashan village and it is pretty crap - overpriced, dirty hotels and nothing whatsoever to do except go for a meal.

We climbed up to the North peak from the ground, which took just 2.5 hours (not 4-5 hours as Lonely Planet suggests) It's not a technically difficult climb now that the path is constructed entirey of concrete steps, it's just a bit of effort. It's worth it just for the sense of satisfaction you get at the top when you see all the Chinese in their expensive hiking gear, all of whom took the cable car up.

At the top the views are spectacular, and the walk around the peaks fascinating. Sadly, like all major attractions in China, the place has lost it's soul a little thanks to the noisy crowds, refreshment stops, concrete pathways and gift shops. Perhaps this is why so many people stay overnight, to get a bit more peace and quiet to enjoy the place.