is it bad

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
User Avatar
kiwiw

 
Posts: 353
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:49 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

is it bad

by kiwiw » Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:29 pm

to lead on a single half rope?
on alpine climbs I've done this before on stuff I know I won't fall on, like 5.7. it's a 8.6 50M.
how hard is it to break a rope? this weekend I'm going in to do the serpintine arete. I don't want to carry 2 ropes for the 4-5 pitches that are 5.5 or so, becasue I don't want to carry them on the upper 4th class.

no avatar
The Chief

 
Thanked: time in post

by The Chief » Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:30 pm

Do it all the time in the BC.

Mammut Genesis 8.6 Super Dry Coat 60m.
Last edited by The Chief on Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User Avatar
ExcitableBoy

 
Posts: 3611
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:33 am
Thanked: 644 times in 481 posts

by ExcitableBoy » Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:31 pm

I lead on a half rope all the time. On harder pitches I will double it up.

User Avatar
kiwiw

 
Posts: 353
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:49 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by kiwiw » Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:35 pm

sweet. I'll just bring one then, light is right!

User Avatar
fatdad

 
Posts: 1462
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 9:39 pm
Thanked: 101 times in 71 posts

by fatdad » Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:21 am

I've done it alot too, but I wouldn't want to test a skinny rope by falling on it, especially with the type of runout, simul-climbing you often do in the backcountry.

User Avatar
Diggler

 
Posts: 2796
Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2001 1:03 pm
Thanked: 11 times in 10 posts

by Diggler » Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:27 am

Just don't test out the capacity over a sharp edge...

User Avatar
rhyang

 
Posts: 8960
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:55 pm
Thanked: 59 times in 38 posts

by rhyang » Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:35 am

Each strand of a half rope system is rated to catch a leader fall by itself, but like others have said I'd be wary of sharp edges and the possibility of rockfall.

Still, I do this kind of thing too when the climbing is easy and I want to save weight. Folding it over for short pitches sounds like something I might try sometime ..

User Avatar
kiwiw

 
Posts: 353
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:49 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by kiwiw » Fri Sep 25, 2009 1:28 am

on loose 4th class often I'll put the rope away, if my partner is comfortable with it. the reason, it's safer. the rope can catch loose blocks and bring them down onto it self and me. the closest I've come to being hit by rockfall was being roped up on loose 4th class terrain. the rock missed me by a couple feet and then nailed the rope, almost cutting it in half. I didn't notice the core shot until halfway down a rap!


Return to General

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests