If anyone's been up Izta recently I'd appreciate any information regarding snow conditions. Does anyone know if the Altzomoni hut is open?

The last time I was there, it was necessary to get a permit from the park office in Amecameca, but I heard that it is no longer necessary, and payment can be made on the way to the Paso de Cortez. Can anyone confirm this is now the case?

Thanks!

Woodie

Bump: Now I know about the permits- thanks Kevin.

What about snow conditions or the hut?

We're leaving Saturday.

Thanks!

Good luck! I can tell you that we did it in March 2012 and there wasn't much snow at all and where there was, it was flat high up on La Arista Del Sol. Not sure how late January compares though.

Thanks Matt. When I did it several years ago, I could have done it in trail runners. Apparently there was a fair amount of snow along the Arista del Sol around Thanksgiving. I'm not sure if it's still covered.

Did you use the Altzomoni hut or know if it's in use?

Friends were there Saturday. No snow. Leather boots and microspikes should suffice. Have fun!

Thanks Fletch. I'll be down there two weeks hence.

I'll post an update while I'm south of the border, or just after I get home. I hope you have a great trip Kiefer.

Woodie

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=14661

Woodie/Kiefer, I was on the first half of this trip (Orizaba only). But lots of beta on current Izta conditions. Good luck.

James, thanks so much for the link to the trip report- just what I was looking for! Looks like everyone had a great time.

Woodie

Woodie Hopper wrote:James, thanks so much for the link to the trip report- just what I was looking for! Looks like everyone had a great time.

Woodie

Seriously! Thanks a ton, James!!! The beta is freaking awesome.
Think I'll leave my mountaineering boots at home and just bring the heavy summer leathers.
That trip report brings back a lot of memories with Chris (Haliku) and Mike (Chicagotransplant).

Update for Kiefer or anyone else who might be headed south of the border soon:

We climbed Nevado de Toluca first from the hut. You can't drive into the crater anymore. That didn't stop thousands of Mexicans from heading up there after church on Sunday. When we arrived around six, almost no one was there. We did nearly the complete crater rim traverse starting from the outside going counter clockwise to Pico Fraile before descending into the crater. There was some fun scrambling similar to what we have in CO up to class 4.

For Iztaccihuatl we were told at the Paso de Cortes we needed to pay for two days since we arrived the evening before our climb. The Altzomoni hut has been touched-up a bit since I was there last, and it was comfortable. They have sloppy pads to sleep on, so you don't need a pad unless it's full and you have to sleep on the floor. Conditions were pretty dry. I didn't use mountaineering boots or crampons, but used one trekking pole and an axe. The only time I needed my axe was when I glissaded down onto the Ayoloco glacier. In the dark the trail is a little confusing out of La Joya, so make sure you stay right. You should also stay right, a little low out of the portillo, otherwise you take a fun but unnecessary class 3 climb that wastes time.

At Orizaba the pellet hut was very comfortable and actually nice despite its age. I have stayed at both huts now, and I like this one better. The larger one was filled with a group from IMG and one smaller group. There are no pads in either hut. The glacier has good conditions without hard ice currently. Most of the Ruta Espinoza is marked by wands. The upper labyrinth has some snow and hard ice, so be careful here. I used my mountaineering boots and an axe, but wished I brought a pole for dealing with the scree and talus in the labyrinth.

The weather was great for us everyday we climbed; I hope you are lucky too.

Thanks all for the great beta, it was really appreciated.

Woodie

Sadly, the owner of the Izta page is deceased. If anyone wants to update (or perhaps jointly adopt) the page, maybe they should. It was a really good page, but needs some updates since things have changed.

Izta is almost entirely free of snow as of 2/25/2014. Crampons are needed on the last push. Wore trail runners and shorts.

Scott wrote:Sadly, the owner of the Izta page is deceased. If anyone wants to update (or perhaps jointly adopt) the page, maybe they should. It was a really good page, but needs some updates since things have changed.

Scott. I just took over ownership of the page many thanks to Bob.
I'll start making changes soon. Was just down there myself 3 weeks ago. Woodie. Would love some input/help buddy!
-Kiefer

Did anyone do Izta in March this year?
I take it from posts above that there were some January/February climbs and crampons were only needed on the final section.
I'm wondering if a pair of Scarpa Charmoz would be good enough?
Normally they're ok to around the 4500 metre mark.