La Sportiva G2 SM vs. Scarpa Phantom 6000

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ClimbingChic237

 
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La Sportiva G2 SM vs. Scarpa Phantom 6000

by ClimbingChic237 » Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:20 pm

Hello guys,

I am a bit torn between these two boots for my upcoming Denali trip. G2 SM is a fairly new boot with minimal (to none) cust reviews. Therefore, I am not totally sold on that. Is it going to keep my feet warm without the overboots? Does anyone tried it yet? Does it run large or small? :?:

I already tried Scarpa 6000 (in my living room only) and the fit is a bit tight so have to up-size, which now might be a bit large. Anyway, with SCARPA I am planning to wear overboots. But if G2 SM is warmer than 6000 and won't need the overboots, then I would rather get that.

If anyone tried any of these two boots (especially G2 SM) please let me know your thoughts. I appreciate!!! Thanks.

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Re: La Sportiva G2 SM vs. Scarpa Phantom 6000

by ExcitableBoy » Tue Feb 09, 2016 9:31 pm

I can't really answer your questions except to say that most people find that either Scarpa fits their feet or La Sportiva fits their feet. Few people can get an optimum fit with both brands. La Sportiva fits narrow feet better while Scarpa fits wide feet better. Try both boots on and your decision may be made for you.

I have a suggestion. 6000 meter boots like the models you are interested in are expensive, but worth it if you are climbing technical terrain. Scarpa Phantom 6000 clocks in at $740 and is still not warm enough for Denali so you need an over boot that adds $160. Right there you have $900 in boots. Over boots are a PITA, BTW. The La Sportiva boot weighs in at $825. If you need over boots, I don't know if these boots are warm enough without them, then you are looking at $985. For those prices you might as well get an 8000 meter boot.

Or, and this is what I highly recommend, get a pair of plastics like Scarpa Inverno or Koflach Artics Expedion for $330 and $450, respectively. Even cheaper used. Get a pair of insulated super gators for around $150. For that price you have fully serviceable boots that will last a lot longer than 6000 meter boots. They may be a bit heavier and not as good at technical climbing, but if your aspirations run towards non technical climbs like the West Buttress or the Polish Glacier on Aconcagua, they will treat you right.

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Re: La Sportiva G2 SM vs. Scarpa Phantom 6000

by buckie06 » Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:34 am

I just purchased the G2 SM, mostly for cold ice climbing. And to hopefully use on denali in the next few years.

On the fit: I think they run 1/2 size large. I am a 42 in my Sportiva Nepals and Trangos, yet the G2SM 42 feels large, I didn't get to try a 41.5 at the store, but I suspect it would fit better. Disclaimer: as a women my feet fit differently in men's boots, so ymmv.

Sadly I've only used them for one weekend ice climbing in 30 degree temps, and my feet were very hot! borderline uncomfortably hot. So I have high hopes they'll keep my feet warm in very cold temps.

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ClimbingChic237

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Re: La Sportiva G2 SM vs. Scarpa Phantom 6000

by buckie06 » Wed Feb 10, 2016 6:06 pm

Also, La Sportiva is marketing the boot for "Peaks above 6000m"

I'm really enjoying the BOA lacing system. And they're amazingly lightweight for a double boot.

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JP

 
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Re: La Sportiva G2 SM vs. Scarpa Phantom 6000

by JP » Sun Nov 06, 2016 5:55 pm

ClimbingChic237 wrote:Hello guys,

I am a bit torn between these two boots for my upcoming Denali trip. G2 SM is a fairly new boot with minimal (to none) cust reviews. Therefore, I am not totally sold on that. Is it going to keep my feet warm without the overboots? Does anyone tried it yet? Does it run large or small? :?:

I already tried Scarpa 6000 (in my living room only) and the fit is a bit tight so have to up-size, which now might be a bit large. Anyway, with SCARPA I am planning to wear overboots. But if G2 SM is warmer than 6000 and won't need the overboots, then I would rather get that.

If anyone tried any of these two boots (especially G2 SM) please let me know your thoughts. I appreciate!!! Thanks.


The question is kind of moot.
How suitable a boot is for a particular peak depends as much on a climbers physiology as it depends on the boots thermal insulation. Some brands mention the thermal ratings on the boots, while most don't. Personally I get cold easily .... but I have used the Nepal's on at least two 7000+ meter climbs in the Himalayas. Once very early in the season and once very late in the climbing season (equate that to very cold; -20 to -25°C at camp 3). Based on that I'd say the Phantom 6000 would definitely serve you well on Denali. With over boots? No doubt. They'd be even better.

But once again, that totally depends on how your body reacts to cold temps. The name for G2 SM for your info is from Gasherbrum 2. Much higher, much tougher climb than Denali. Also Sportiva places the G2 between the Spantiks and Olympus Mons. So I'd suspect they'd be plenty warm. (Dare I say even without the overboots). But once again, this is assuming you don't get cold feet at laughable temps. In which case it is better to go for 8000 m boots like the Olympus Mons, Millet Everest, Phantom 8000 etc.

Hope that addresses your concerns.

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Re: La Sportiva G2 SM vs. Scarpa Phantom 6000

by TheBootfitter » Wed Dec 07, 2016 4:29 am

JP wrote:The name for G2 SM for your info is from Gasherbrum 2. Much higher, much tougher climb than Denali.

Point of clarification... Depends on the route, no? Assuming the OP was referring to the West Buttress, then no doubt.

Also, I suspect you're familiar with this, but in terms of barometric pressure and associated levels of oxygen available to enter the blood stream, Denali is pretty close to the same as Gasherbrum II due to the "thinner air" near the poles.


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