Middle Palisade Late Nov Beta Request

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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by bajaandy » Thu Oct 29, 2009 2:24 pm

I was actually thinking of doing Split Mt. that same weekend. Totally depends on the weather though. Fresh, unconsolidated snow conjurs up images of way too much work.

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by yaknjorgl » Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:01 pm

hey - I've tried the 3rd class in early winter conditions - it forced us out of the gully proper and and up onto the walls on the side- not bad, but slippery easy 5th class in boots- we ran out of time and didn't summit- we didn't expect to have to belay -
but right now - its like a heat wave - it could be nice

I wouldn't mind tagging along-
I live in Bishop, PM me

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by Vladislav » Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:51 pm

squishy wrote:Image

This seemed class four to me...the chute on the left...but only a few moves...

I can't imagine doing the route in winter, I want to see pics...

Squishy, you were in the wrong chute. For the Secor's chute you should have turned right (not left) from the top of the ledge. I did exactly the same mistake in 2005. We went even further left at the top. There were a couple of very short class 4 sections. We went down the correct Secor's chute which was class 3 or lower all the way. In any case, I would not want to do any of these routes in winter. I can't imagine what kind of snow should be there for it not to slide. Br-r-r...


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