Mont Blanc Gouter Route,party/climbing partner wanted June 1

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bennettmeier

 
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Mont Blanc Gouter Route,party/climbing partner wanted June 1

by bennettmeier » Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:35 am

Hello,
My name is Bennett Meier I'm a 25 year old American with plenty of cold weather, Appalachian trail, Skiing, and Presidential Range experience. However I've never done any Ice climbing or had any use for crampons. I also respect the tremendous difference in difficulty that Mont Blanc presents compared to my past experiences. That being said I am in terrific shape and have all the necessary equipment for Mont Blanc including a tent. A guide is out of my budget and I'd prefer not to attempt a solo climb. I'll be at the base of the mountain June 1st. If anyone is or knows someone who will be there around that date and is willing to accommodate me I would be tremendously grateful.

BM

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Motus

 
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Re: Mont Blanc Gouter Route,party/climbing partner wanted Ju

by Motus » Sat Jan 10, 2015 11:50 pm

Hello,

I MIGHT be there at the time; I plan to do so.

I'm actually very glad you decided to find partner(s) or even a whole party for Gouter route. During the summer, Gouter route is overcrowded with climbers and guided tourists from all over the world. Which are the real danger of the mountain.

The climb itself isn't that demanding, you'll do just fine with basic gear (crampons and basic ice axe). But... The guides there are among the douchiest people I've ever met. Often I think they'll push you into the abyss without the blink of an eye.
They are guiding too large roped partys of 10-15 people on a single rope! Which causes really bad jams on "bottlenecks". They're very quick "on the elbow" to push you out of their way. And they'll guide absolutely anyone willing to pay. If you google a bit, you'll find older articles about the same issue. Guides pushing clients beyond their abilities in order to have as many clients on top as fast as possible. Which finally is the main reason of most accidents on the route.

Don't get me wrong, Mont Blanc via Gouter is a beautiful route, and not too demanding for a reasonably healthy person.

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fabius.b

 
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Re: Mont Blanc Gouter Route,party/climbing partner wanted Ju

by fabius.b » Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:19 pm

Motus,
You told the truth about guides, but the real danger of the path Goutier, is the Couloir, with falling stones hitting and killing a lot of people every year.
So the chance to pass safely, is before the ice melts, in the early morning.
So it is best to sleep for the first night at the Tete Rousse, go early in the morning to Goutier and rest for the second night.
BM, need to be fit.

I'd like to go, late June, but I'm not so sure to be free from my job.

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Fletch

 
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Re: Mont Blanc Gouter Route,party/climbing partner wanted Ju

by Fletch » Wed Feb 04, 2015 7:58 am

I think that Chamonix could very well be the 2nd worst place in the world to be on a budget. Right after Zermatt.

Go guided or get really lucky on the weather. They were kicking people off the mountain this year who were trying to camp between the huts. Leave your tent at home. Make reservations in the huts ahead of time (lottery system fills up fast!). AAC members get really good rates...

Lots of logistics, guides aren't that bad... we didn't use them, but spent a few evenings chatting them up... normal folks, just know what you're doing and you'll be fine...

And not to be a downer, but MB is not the place to try on crampons for the first time... great place though. Have fun!

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fabius.b

 
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Re: Mont Blanc Gouter Route,party/climbing partner wanted Ju

by fabius.b » Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:36 am

About camping, it's forbidden in Mont Blanc areas like previous years, any form of camping is forbidden by ministerial decree in the classified area of the Mt Blanc, including bivouacking.
This year, public authorities will implement an enforcement regime to ensure this will not happen. However, you may camp on the base camp of Tête Rousse (50 tents maximum).
Last year there were employees at Nid D'aigle, who controlled if the climbers had reservations or not.

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fabius.b

 
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Re: Mont Blanc Gouter Route,party/climbing partner wanted Ju

by fabius.b » Thu Feb 12, 2015 11:27 am

However, my program includes the ascent of Gran Paradiso, Punta Dufour or Gnifetti on Monte Rosa and finally Mont Blanc, so I could acclimate.

In particular, I would like to begin with Gran Paradiso (4061 mt) in two days, with a night of rest at Ref. Chabod (2750 mt)

Monte Rosa in two days with a night of rest at Cap Gnifetti 3647 mt , and day 2 at Cap Regina Margherita /Punta Gnifetti 4554 mt or Punta Dufour 4634 mt

an finally Mont Blanc in 3 days, with first night at Tete Rousse, 2 night at Gouter, e day 3 the ascent.

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fabius.b

 
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Re: Mont Blanc Gouter Route,party/climbing partner wanted Ju

by fabius.b » Fri Mar 27, 2015 5:47 pm

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