Hi,

I want to go to Chamonix in the beginning of August and I have a few questions I hope somebody can answer here.

1. Is there a place where we can deposit some gear in the Valley? We want to climb the 3 monts traverse, descend the Gouter and do some more technical routes afterwards. There would be things like the 2 ice axes, one of our 2 half ropes and rock gear that we would not want to take on the 3 monts.

2. We plan to go all the way down to Nid d'Angle, in case we are too slow will there be some space in the Gouter or Tete Rousse hut or will they just not let you in? Obviously we don't want to make a reservation in advance.

3. Do people usually take technical ice axes for the steep sections of the Tacul N-Face seracs? Is it common to encounter hard ice on any part of the route?

4. What conditions can be expected (beginning of August) on the Frendo Spur. I suppose good conditions would be dry rock, to be climbable with climbing shoes or at least without crampons, but that would probably mean hard ice near the rognon. Is it more preferable to go left or right around it late in the year?

Thanks,

Jupp

1) i stored my excess gear at the campsite I was staying in the valley

2) Gouter Hut is usually fully booked during the season. There will be spare beds due to cancellations if the weather is real bad. With or without spare beds the warden will let you hang around at a fee of 90 euro (this is the new hut whereas the old hut is abandoned and locked up).

Tete Rousse Hut has a free camping ground for 50 pitches. There is more chance of spare bed here, again walk-in charge is 90 euro.

400m below Tete Rousse is a free hut: Rognes Hut. No heating. The loft floor can sleep up to a dozen.

further down close to the train terminal is Nid d'Aigle Hut which I believe is also free.

You can google the hut names for their factsheets.

1) If you are staying at a hotel either before or after your climbing dates they'll probably let you stash stuff in a closet or something. We did that last year.

2) If you think it's a real possibility to be caught out, you may want to consider carrying a bivy sack. But as stated above, you should be able to find somewhere to sleep. It might be cramped, uncomfortable, expensive, and on the floor, but out of the weather.

3) I haven't done N-face, just the regular E-face, but it didn't look like it would need 2 axes. Maybe bring one classic and one tech (or semi-tech) if needed.