x-post from cascadeclimbers

i'm in the northwest for a few weeks and hoping to get some climbing done on hood. obviously not the best time of year, but it's what i've got. i'm hoping somebody has suggestions on which routes are holding together the best. has any recent snowfall accumulated up there to improve climbing conditions? anything still holding contiguous snow/ice to near the summit? what routes should i be looking at to avoid rockfall? is being up on a ridge (from my reading, maybe cathedral ridge?) helpful to avoid rockfall in gullies, or is the rock fairly broken up there as well?

i'm a n00b cascade climber, but experienced in the sierra. 5th class rock and moderate ice routes are in play if they're in shape.

thanks for help and/or suggestions.

It's now early fall. No fresh snow has fallen since June.

The slopes are bare. And would imagine the last 600 ft is a lot crumbling, dangerous rock.

You can always climb into the crater (i.e. onto the hogsback). It's worth the climb. And will likely hear rockfalls every few minutes and you MIGHT consider summiting. Your call.

If you are close to Hood then you must be close to Adams. You could do the South Spur reasonably safely or perhaps Mazama Glacier.

Yes, south Spur, Mt. Adams is a good one.

BUT... Mazama glacier MAY be criss-crossed with creavasses by now.

Yup, got it on snow, just heard some rumbles of snow on rainier and not familiar enough with seasonal weather here to know if snow would have fallen at altitude. Adams sounds like a decent idea if we get up on hood and it doesn't seem like we can find a way to avoid rockfall. Thanks for the thoughts keep them coming

You didn't mention exactly how long you will be here. I have climbed the North Face of Hood in November (don't remember exactly if it was early, mid or late), but if we get a few storm and melt-freeze cycles then the NF may come into conditon if you stick around long enough.