Mt. Rainer Training

Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.
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seanpeckham

 
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by seanpeckham » Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:45 pm

I second the BS call on the notion that anyone, or at least any 5k runner, can do it. Maybe anyone with a good strength base could get enough aerobic conditioning from 5k training to survive it without too much misery. I'm hoping to find someone or two to climb Rainier with me next year. I ran 10 miles the other day, but I'm sure as hell not ready to haul a 70 lb. pack 9000 vertical feet, as I am skinny and not very strong. I have a fair amount of work to do.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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by ExcitableBoy » Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:49 pm

seanpeckham wrote: but I'm sure as hell not ready to haul a 70 lb. pack 9000 vertical feet,

If you are carrying 70 lbs on Rainier, then you are doing it wrong. No reason to carry much more than 30lbs.

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mconnell

 
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by mconnell » Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:11 pm

seanpeckham wrote:I second the BS call on the notion that anyone, or at least any 5k runner, can do it. Maybe anyone with a good strength base could get enough aerobic conditioning from 5k training to survive it without too much misery. I'm hoping to find someone or two to climb Rainier with me next year. I ran 10 miles the other day, but I'm sure as hell not ready to haul a 70 lb. pack 9000 vertical feet, as I am skinny and not very strong. I have a fair amount of work to do.


With the amount of climbing you've done, and if you drop half the weight off that pack, you should be able to do Rainier with no problems. I've only done the Kautz, but it was far from the hardest trip i've done even though I only trained for a couple of weeks (and was WAY out of shape before that.)

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brandon

 
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by brandon » Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:25 pm

Everybody's too worried about can I run this far, how much should I lift weights.

It's all in your head. Seriously.

It's hiking uphill in the snow for 2 days. Anybody can do this. If you're in great shape you might hum and whistle and have fun while doing it. If your a smoker and a couch potato, your lungs and legs will burn.

I'll put forward that most people who fail on such mtns do so from lack of mental preparation and perserverance, than lack of physical fitness.

And going with a guide service cattle drive is cheating. Plus it handicaps you, having to adhere to the rope teams pace. Learning and practicing the necessary skills, and find a decent partner or team is part of the mental preparation.

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sunniemh

 
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by sunniemh » Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:04 pm

Thanks everyone for your advice..... It helps a tone. I am really excited to climb Rainer. I am a marathon runner and use to pain and enduring for extended periods of time. I feel my biggest weakness is mental. I want to enjoy climbing Rainer and be able to feel confident in my abilities on the snow both physically and mentally. I plan on hitting the books and snow to learn some more safety techniques to build my confidence and experience for any situation. Thanks for all the awesome advice. I LOVE SUMMIT POST! :lol:

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bird

 
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by bird » Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:14 pm

mconnell wrote:
seanpeckham wrote:I second the BS call on the notion that anyone, or at least any 5k runner, can do it. Maybe anyone with a good strength base could get enough aerobic conditioning from 5k training to survive it without too much misery. I'm hoping to find someone or two to climb Rainier with me next year. I ran 10 miles the other day, but I'm sure as hell not ready to haul a 70 lb. pack 9000 vertical feet, as I am skinny and not very strong. I have a fair amount of work to do.


With the amount of climbing you've done, and if you drop half the weight off that pack, you should be able to do Rainier with no problems. I've only done the Kautz, but it was far from the hardest trip i've done even though I only trained for a couple of weeks (and was WAY out of shape before that.)

+1

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rockymtnclimber

 
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Anyone?

by rockymtnclimber » Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:47 pm

Anyone can climb Rainier? I'm going to call BS on that one, LOUDLY! Unless you meant that anyone can train to get in shape for it, because that's more reasonable. I've seen plenty of people who couldn't do it. Yes, for many it was a mental thing, but not all. I've had partners push so hard just to get to high camp, I've seen people rushed off the mountain with HAPE, and I've known of people to die from the physical effects of the altitude. So, to say that the average couch potato can get up from in front of the TV and climb Rainier is laughable.

So here's my feedback, based on about 8 attempts and 3 summits. I have turned around once due to conditioning. I had climbed it before, and yes, I probably could have pushed on. But at what risk to myself and my partner?

Yeah, 70 pounds is a bit heavy. My only pack over that was for a winter ascent. On the other hand, if you really only have a 30 pound pack, you aren't bringing the gear to be prepared for what Rainier can throw at you. Be ready to carry at least 50 pounds, then if you happen to come in a little under that, you'll be loving life.

My most comfortable climbs were when I was doing a lot of cross training. I was on my bike a few days a week, for 20 or 30 miles each ride. I was getting out on the trails with at least some pack almost every weekend. And I was running a bit. Actually, I wasn't really training to climb at all, but I never felt better.

So, I would say to get out and do something active at every chance. And if you aren't used to a heavy pack, throw some extra gear in there for your shorter hikes. You'll really appreciate it when it comes time to climb something big.

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by kheegster » Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:05 am

seanpeckham wrote:I second the BS call on the notion that anyone, or at least any 5k runner, can do it. Maybe anyone with a good strength base could get enough aerobic conditioning from 5k training to survive it without too much misery. I'm hoping to find someone or two to climb Rainier with me next year. I ran 10 miles the other day, but I'm sure as hell not ready to haul a 70 lb. pack 9000 vertical feet, as I am skinny and not very strong. I have a fair amount of work to do.


I've never ran 10 miles in my life (OK, once), and DC was a workout but not particularly challenging.

If you're going to climb on a private group then yes, it's your responsibility to get in as good a shape as you can.

However the typical RMI client doesn't need to carry even 10 lbs up to Camp Muir as all the logistics are already in place for the guided clients, and the guides have enough reserve strength and experience to get clients out of trouble. So I still maintain that anyone who can run 5k can do Rainier.

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by jonesa37 » Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:09 am

seanpeckham wrote:I second the BS call on the notion that anyone, or at least any 5k runner, can do it. Maybe anyone with a good strength base could get enough aerobic conditioning from 5k training to survive it without too much misery. I'm hoping to find someone or two to climb Rainier with me next year. I ran 10 miles the other day, but I'm sure as hell not ready to haul a 70 lb. pack 9000 vertical feet, as I am skinny and not very strong. I have a fair amount of work to do.


dude why would you carry 70lbs are you bringing your house with you?

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bird

 
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Re: Anyone?

by bird » Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:43 am

rockymtnclimber wrote:So, to say that the average couch potato can get up from in front of the TV and climb Rainier is laughable.

Be ready to carry at least 50 pounds, then if you happen to come in a little under that, you'll be loving life.


1) if your screen name was Cascademtnclimber you'd have more credibility on this thread. :-)
2) No one said the average couch potato can get up Rainier, just someone who can run 5K
3) 50 lbs is stupid. 40 is the maximum someone should be saddled with, 30-35 is about right.

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brandon

 
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by brandon » Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:57 am

I can hump 100lb packs when it's necessary. It's usually not. I've gone out for 25 days, solo, up to 20,000+ ft, and had less than 70lbs. Rope, rack, steaks, onions, and whiskey included.

Minus the clothes you're wearing, I can't imagine having more than 30 lbs to head up Rainer, even with food for 6 days. I'd likely have about 20.

Obviously, folks who are in good shape have more 'fun' climbing. But I'm saying the focus on athletic training misses the point, that the important bit is mental. Granted, being in good shape contributes to confidence, especially for novices.

I'm also here to say any body could run a 5k off the couch, it's in your head.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Anyone?

by ExcitableBoy » Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:28 am

rockymtnclimber wrote: On the other hand, if you really only have a 30 pound pack, you aren't bringing the gear to be prepared for what Rainier can throw at you.

Bullshit.

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mconnell

 
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Re: Anyone?

by mconnell » Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:03 am

ExcitibleBoy wrote:
rockymtnclimber wrote: On the other hand, if you really only have a 30 pound pack, you aren't bringing the gear to be prepared for what Rainier can throw at you.

Bullshit.


+1.

The only 70lb pack I think I've ever carried was on Aconcagua, and that was mostly because I way over planned on food and fuel (planned 20 days, down in 12). 50lbs is about right for solo winter trips if I carry my expedition tent (8.5lbs).

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RickF

 
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by RickF » Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:22 am

bird wrote:KG...true...but the fitter you are, the more you'll enjoy it.


Good summation! I've done spur of the moment trips when I wasn't in very good shape. Those trips were O.K. but trips that I psyched up for and trained for are always more enjoyable.

I'm finding that if I always have some challenging trips or outings on the calendar I'm less likey to fall back into the couch-potato routine.

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seanpeckham

 
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by seanpeckham » Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:32 am

Okay, forget the 70 lbs, for some reason that number was floating in my head because the one guy I know who's climbed Rainier I could swear said he carried that much, and at this stage I'm thinking more about my fitness than the details of my setup. I know people go on much less weight than that and I know some of the things I do that I could do better, but 30 lbs is surprising to me. I'm skeptical it's safe/feasible/inexpensive, but I'm all ears for how to reduce my pack weight.

And I'd prefer not to hire a commercial guide (though haven't ruled it out), or rely on someone else to compensate for my lack of conditioning. I have bonked in a group of fitter people than myself before because I joined a climb that mentally I could do, but physically couldn't go at their pace. It's embarrassing. At some point, maybe not on Rainier in good conditions, but eventually if you do enough mountaineering, such a scenario goes from mere embarrassing to dangerous. And the whole point of doing it is to enjoy it, not just to tick it off the list. And I need to go fast enough to afford to spend time taking photos :)

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