by Matthew Holliman » Mon Jun 14, 2010 6:42 am
by Gangolf Haub » Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:01 am
Matthew Holliman wrote:My fiancee and I are planning to visit northern Italy for our honeymoon, starting around the end of June. We have a couple of weeks in all, and while I plan to make it to the Lake District for a couple of days, to Venice for a day, etc. we're hoping to spend the majority of the time in the Dolomites.
I have a couple of guide books on the various via ferratas there (the two volume Cicerone guides by Smith and Fletcher, and one other similar sized book whose name I forget, which was translated from Italian), but the sheer number of routes in these is pretty overwhelming for someone who's never visited the area before. And most of the pictures have me salivating, so it isn't easy to separate the wheat from the chaff.
(1) Does anyone have suggestions for must-climb peaks in the area? My fiancee does not have much experience with snow, which seems to rule out options like Marmolada, which would otherwise be on my list. Neither of us have climbed a via ferrata before; my fiancee does not lead, so I assume self-belaying on the ferrata may still be unnerving to her, so I'd rather find stuff towards the easier end of the spectrum, at least initially. (She does well scrambling class 4, although it unnerves me to watch her on this.)
For what it's worth, Gran Cir/Piz da Cir, Sassongher, and Kleine Fermeda (not a ferrata, but sounds cool) all caught my eye, but this is probably a pretty haphazard selection. Easier days are probably preferred to longer days, since it is our honeymoon after all.
(2) Is a car necessary for travel in this area? I gather from various SP pages that this is helpful if pursuing a normal climbing schedule, but given that we'll have a more relaxed itinerary and aren't planning on particularly long days, it would be nice if we could get by with just train/bus.
Any other suggestions for hikes, things to see in the general area, etc. would be welcome as well.
Thanks in advance.
by damgaard » Mon Jun 14, 2010 1:01 pm
by mvs » Mon Jun 14, 2010 1:11 pm
by Gabriele Roth » Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:41 pm
by Matthew Holliman » Mon Jun 14, 2010 3:17 pm
by Gangolf Haub » Mon Jun 14, 2010 4:22 pm
Matthew Holliman wrote:Thanks, these are all wonderful suggestions!
Tre Cime was high on my list, but I would find it frustrating to see it and not climb it--it would be kind of a tease. (Peak bagger's OCD). If it is snow-free (I assume this is unlikely this early in the season) and I can talk my wife into joining me for it, it sounds like a must-do, though.
A couple of other questions occur to me--with most of these ferratas, do people typically downclimb or rappel? The guidebooks have a fairly opaque system rating "seriousness," but it's not clear to me how that translates to, say, class 4 vs. YDS 5.6. Downclimbing the former seems fine, but downclimbing the latter sounds like it could be a bit spicy, even with a self-belay, depending on how run out the protection is.
by mvs » Mon Jun 14, 2010 4:30 pm
by fatdad » Mon Jun 14, 2010 6:32 pm
by Gabriele Roth » Mon Jun 14, 2010 6:49 pm
no, from the Gardena Passfatdad wrote:... the Piz Cir, which is a really easy half day from the Sella Pass ...
by fatdad » Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:04 pm
gabriele wrote:no, from the Gardena Passfatdad wrote:... the Piz Cir, which is a really easy half day from the Sella Pass ...
by Matthew Holliman » Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:52 pm
Gangolf Haub wrote:
Hmm - I'm not sure if you got the nature of ferratas right. A well maintained one has a cable running all the way along the serious parts. You simply have to clip in one of your two biners into the cable and hike (or climb) along. The rating is difficult as with all the iron the ferrata has a completely different difficulty. Class 4 translates to an easy ferrata but there are also easy ones which run through near vertical wall sections on strong pins. And then there are the protected trails - sentiero attrezato in Italian. Basicaly a hike along a ledge or up som rocky slopes with clip-in cables along.
I'd suggest you start with an easy one - Sasshonger, Roßzahn Ferrata or Sass Rigais to see if you both are comfortable with it. Then try something harder.
Tre Cime will be beyond your wife's capacity - don't drag her up there. There are wonderful places in the vicinity which might not be the climb you dreamt about but which will keep you dreaming of them afterwards:
Two examples from last september - no climbing involved though the Cadini have some horribly chossy sections:
http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/5 ... urina.html
http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/5 ... earby.html
by Gangolf Haub » Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:26 pm
by Gabriele Roth » Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:42 pm
mvs wrote: .. suggestion of hiking the Alta Via 1 or 2 for a few days. For my wife and I it was a life changing experience that inspired us to move here.
Gangolf Haub wrote:And as gabriele said everything in the western Dolomites is boring
by rpc » Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:20 pm
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