News of Technique and Training

Hello all, my wife, daughter, and myself are planning on doing a 3 day climb of Whitney this coming summer. Can anyone suggest an example of a maximum training week as we build toward or climb date? We live in Pasadena and will be spending a week up at Mammoth Mountain before we climb.

I appreciate any information. Thank you!

M

I can't seem to to decide where I'm at with axes and ski touring. So one side of me says I need to save weight big time. I'm only a small guy so every G counts. As such I can't haul my 800g climb axe up with me. A Grivel Haute Route axe is only 320g which is a huge saving.

Everyone says that the ski touring axes are pretty useless as arresting so has ...

I hate running. I've never been good at it (I'm 6-3, 230 pounds). But every time I go hiking/climbing I learn the importance of being in in great cardio shape.

Is running required? Do you run? How often? How far? How fast?

I run 3 miles @ 10min/mile, 2 times a week.

When cutting cord to restring climbing pro, there are a number of things that can make it a real PITA. There is nothing worse than trying to thread 5mm through a 5.5mm hole with a big lump of melted rope on the end. Most of us can't justify a $200 rope cutter just to cut a few pieces of rope or cord per year. A recent thread I started brought up how the sheath separates ...

SoCalSnow is hosting its first free Avalanche Awareness Class on the evening of March 13th. Hosted at the Tarzana A16 and starting at 6:30pm, the class will include a slideshow presentation, equipment demonstration, and question and answer session. Allen Giernet, class instructor and SoCalSnow director will also talk about using SoCalSnow as a resource, as well as what additional education and resources we hope to offer in the future.

Check out the Events page at ...

My buddies and I headed out to St. Mary's this past Monday to spend some time training for some summer trips and made a short video talking about one way to do a 3:1 haul for crevasse rescue. Figured some peeps might find it interesting or useful. Hopefully this doesn't go the way of the Pulley Thread!

LINK IS HERE!
http://www.brianinthewild.com/crevasse-rescue-training-31-haul-video.html

I pee in the snow and then stick my tongue in it. How fast the taste of urine reaches my taste buds indicates how dense the snow is.

So I have this nice big red bump that developed on my shin from my boots after doing about 12 miles, 4000 ft, this weekend. It took about 3 days to develop. It is painful to touch or have it rub, sort of like an ingrown hair feeling but much more spread out, maybe an inch across. Happened once before as well.

It is not a big deal right now as I am home, but ...

Hi everyone, I'm very new to this. In fact I havn't been on a rope team yet. I just purchased a Black Diamond Couloir Harness and was reading the included instructions. It gives directions for tying in directly to the rope directly and not to use a locking carabiner.

I sent an email to Black Diamond asking, "How should I tie in directly if I am in the middle of a rope team for glacier ...

Any recommendation on favorite pulleys for crevasse rescue and reasons why? For instance, "x brand is better since you get x ounces in weight reduction with only x reduction in weight capacity".


Thanks for any insight!