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Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.

Re: Securing and abseiling a bergschrund

I'm not sure I fully understand the question, but it seems like you are asking how to build a rappel anchor in snow or ice.

In good ice I build a v-thread anchor. (Google Abalakov V thread for an explanation). If it is hard snow, then I chop a bollard. In soft snow, then I use a fluke or dead man a picket.
Read more : Re: Securing and abseiling a bergschrund | Views : 4852 | Replies : 11


Fitness

Hey lads,

new here, long time browser, first time poster!

Figured here would be a good spot to post.

Myself and a few mates are climbing Kilimanjaro and Elbrus back to back at the end of July/beginning of August. I'm looking for a bit of advice for training, not just for it but in general. I've been climbing on and off the last four years, mostly in the Alps and Scotland on holidays (for the ...
Read more : Fitness | Views : 10875 | Replies : 25


Any feedback on the new Steve House Training Book?

Thinking of buying it, but would like to hear from those who have it. Thank you.
Read more : Any feedback on the new Steve House Training Book? | Views : 13570 | Replies : 22


curcumin as anti-inflammatory and preventative

Howdy folks,
Anyone have any luck taking curcumin (turmeric extract) as an anti-inflammatory for general joint inflammation? I'm talking about hips, elbows, knees but especially finger joints (rock climbing overuse).
I guess my question is twofold: how has it worked for you for inflammation already present? If it has worked, how as it worked as an inflammation preventative post injury?
I've been taking plain turmeric powder for several weeks, without any apparent change. Though I ...
Read more : curcumin as anti-inflammatory and preventative | Views : 3051 | Replies : 4


Hauling/Packing Skis

Can somebody give me some tips on A-Framing skis on a regular pack (ie not a ski pack). I've done it once before but I very much winged it. I can figure it out but it's always better to start with something that's already been tried.

I'm also very interested in this hauling technique, I'm just not wild about drilling a hole in my skis:
http://14erskiers.com/franksblog/2011/0 ... hose-skis/
Read more : Hauling/Packing Skis | Views : 4105 | Replies : 7


Looking for climbing specific training?

Hey guys,

I'm working on a gamified fitness + nutrition program for climbers and looking for beta testers!

Here's the deal:

*No cost to you or any friends you want to play against
*No gym needed
*No fancy equipment (but a pull-up bar would be ideal).
*Challenge your friends and foes, earn points and get fit!

All I need is your email to send you workouts. If you're interested, let me know and I can ...
Read more : Looking for climbing specific training? | Views : 2391 | Replies : 0


Training for Cho Oyu

I am currently training myself for this summer's Cho Oyu trip. Would like to get some advice from those who have 8000 meter experience: what's the reasonable cardio level I should achieve for this kind of expedition?

Currently I train myself with long run (1 per week, 8 mile/h pace for about 8 miles), in gym with stair (interval, work rate 145 steps/minute for 2 minutes, rest with 70 steps/minute for 2 minutes, total 1 ...
Read more : Training for Cho Oyu | Views : 9073 | Replies : 29


Packing Technique

What's the norm for packing technique on a belay parka or other insulating layers?

Do you just leave room at the top of the back to accomodate the "jamming it in there so i can't quickly get it out" method? Do people normally take the time to get them in and out of compression sacks?

Does anyone just strap a layer to the outside of the pack if you know you'll be adding/shedding that layer ...
Read more : Packing Technique | Views : 4815 | Replies : 7


Knot Booklet

I have been working for a while on a Knot Pamphlet that, perhaps inevitably, morphed into a 40+ Knot Booklet.

Thought folks here might like to have a look.

It is not specific to climbing, it is more of a general Knot Booklet, but I think members will find several of the knots useful.

It is made available under the Creative Common License, so it is free, with the following conditions:
Attribution – Noncommercial – ...
Read more : Knot Booklet | Views : 3121 | Replies : 7


Making MORE time to train

I average about an hour a day of good general exercise (wts, cardio, yoga), including weekends. I also have a regular job and a commute (11 hrs tot), not to mention family. I get to the gym by 5 AM and try to walk (fast) at lunch hour when I can but I hit the wall after work. I'm not in bad shape but I am also not in great shape.

I need to train ...
Read more : Making MORE time to train | Views : 3431 | Replies : 3


 

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