Pakistan:security concerns of mountaineers

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Pakistan:security concerns of mountaineers

by alijaffri » Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:59 pm

Security is one major deterrent for hard core mountaineers who wish to climb some of the worlds highest and most challenging mountains. You can go to and read the blog there on this issue. It gives you the true picture as it stands today.You can also follow us on facebook by "liking" us

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Re: Pakistan:security concerns of mountaineers

by sharperblue » Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:23 pm

thank you! - no idea that this discussion existed, but very glad that it does

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Damien Gildea

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Re: Pakistan:security concerns of mountaineers

by Damien Gildea » Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:57 pm


Interesting site, and I think the security info you have there is good, if a little brief. You could mention the guarded road convoys to Chilas being used by mountaineers, or entering from China over the Khunjerab Pass for a safer visit to Hunza rather than coming up from the south. The info on red-tape, bureacracy is also useful. Maybe a table on current peak fees and LO rules etc?

Some other points:
- Bojohagur, not 'Bojoahgur'. It is 7329m, not 7388m. 7388m is the altitude of Ultar itself, a separate peak.
- It is not 'aka Hunza Peak'. Hunza Peak is a separate lower peak near it, next to Bubuliomoting (Lady Finger Peak). Hunza Peak was first climbed in the early 90s by Mick Fowler and Crag Jones.
- Momhil Sar. The nice b&w photo is of the upper southwest face, not southeast, though most of the photo is taken up by the unnamed 6700m peak in front of it, which is just north of the Hispar Glacier. Though the north side of Momhil Sar faces the Shimshal valley, it has not been climbed from that side. So your access info, to go to the Shimshal valley is wrong, really, and the journey up the glacier would take more than a day, you can be pretty sure. The only known access to climb Momhil Sar is from the south, the Hispar then Gharesa Glaciers.
- If you misspell peak names it makes it hard for people to find you on the web and gives the impression that you don't really know what you're talking about.
- "Its unnamed because its unclimbed," is simply not true and misleading for readers of your site. There are many named but unclimbed peaks in the Karakoram. It doesn't matter if the porters say it. The porters have very little knowledge of the geography or climbing history of the Karakoram, quite understandably.
- 'Gateway to Himalayan Alpinism'? This is the Karakoram, not the Himalaya (except for Nanga Parbat etc). The ranges are close, but they are separate. They are not the same thing.
- Helicopter rescue bond. It was always USD$6,000 cash to Askari, reportedly now increased, maybe $10,000. Not $2,000. Has this changed? And although in theory it is optional, most agents, and spouses, will consider it mandatory. Some more explanation about that might be good, as it often confounds first-time expeditions and can be difficult.
- Given the name of your site, will you actually be running any expeditions to, or providing information about, any unclimbed mountains?

I look forward to seeing more on the site. Good luck with it all.

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