I'm heading up to the Palisades this weekend and was planning on climbing the swiss arete on Sill, but my partner had to bail. I'm still planning on making the trip with another non-trad climbing friend who's going to sit tight at the glacier. Any recommendations on best class 3 or possibly class 4 climbs that I can solo without getting myself into too much trouble on. Right now I'm thinking the North Couloir on Sill. I'm relatively new to alpine climbing but having been up Whitney's mountaineers route (June), Hood, and Longs Peak in the past year and climb at 5.10a/b level on sport lead. Thanks for the help!

Middle pal, northeast face is supposed to be mega classic.

Thanks, though I'm taking the North Fork so logistically I'm not sure if I can swing it. It sounds like the palisades glacier is pretty mild but I'm still a little hesitant to cross it solo.

I'd read for years that the E. Arete of Winchell was a classic class 3 and finally did it this year. My take: Very consistent exposed c3 once you're on it. A real pleasure.

Good idea. That sounds like a great option and probably what I'll end up doing. I really wanted to hit Sill via the North Couloir, but the class 4 section is causing some hesitation. Anyone have an opinion on the North Coulior route?

I might definitely still consider Sill. I found the Cl 3-4 section to be a lot of fun and not quite as scary as I thought it might be (YMMV). I would take a copy of the pic from the route page here (or study it before you leave) for reference.



Sorry I didn't get pics up higher, as I had fully stowed my camera/case for the scrambling. It's a little tricky up top, but just look around for the route, and don't expect to go straight up to the summit from the top of the North Couloir.

Enjoy!!

-L

The weather forecast is not so great for this weekend for that area:

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.ph ... tType=text

A 40% chance of rain/snow usually means that 40% of the area will receive snow/rain (typically the highest elevations), not that there is a 40% chance of rain/snow. It might not be much fun on the high peaks in Palisades with a forecast like that.

Or it may make it really fun being in some weather. I guess it depends what you like.

3Deserts wrote:Creek crossing will be cold, cold, cold. Brrrr.

Was up in the South Fork last weekend - the creek crossing was a dry one for us. As you're heading in and reach the creek, there is a branch of the trail that goes right (upstream). We were able to hop across the widest part there with full packs on - maybe 3 feet with dry rock on both sides.

Good luck on Middle Pal!

3Deserts wrote:I may eat my words come tomorrow, but frankly, I'm looking forward to a little weather. Some snow would be neat.

Count me in the same boat. Also, good idea to hit multiple peaks. I may go for Winchell on Sat and Sill on Sunday. Enjoy the trip!

MooseTracks wrote:I might definitely still consider Sill. I found the Cl 3-4 section to be a lot of fun and not quite as scary as I thought it might be (YMMV). I would take a copy of the pic from the route page here (or study it before you leave) for reference.



Sorry I didn't get pics up higher, as I had fully stowed my camera/case for the scrambling. It's a little tricky up top, but just look around for the route, and don't expect to go straight up to the summit from the top of the North Couloir.

Enjoy!!

-L

+1

When we did Sill a few years ago we passed the 4th class section without even realizing it. I was pretty fun on solid rock.

We rapped down only because we met some friends who had climbed the Swiss Arete and they had already set one up.
Crossing the glacier isn't really a big deal, we did have axe's and 'pons which we brought to climb the North coulior.

I ended up hitting Winchell this weekend. After a later start than expected we left Big Pine trail head around 11:30 on Saturday. We hiked through some rain and took our time enjoying the beautiful scenery on the way to our planned campsite, the small subsidiary lake south of Sam Mack lake. We made up some time by scrambling out of Sam Mack meadow rather than taking the trail towards Galey / Sill. We reached our lakeside site around 5:15. After a chilly night listening to ice form and splinter over the lake we woke, late, moved lethargically, and left for the peak Winchell around 9:30. It was a long slog across the moraine and up a talus slope, but definitely worth it for a great climb to the top. Of course I had forgotten to bring the beta on Winchell but remembered that we needed to climb the right most chute on the south east face. It was the obvious route anyways. The chute gradually gets steeper and narrower and scrambling more and more exciting. I had a brief repose when we reached the top of chute topping out at the famed knife edge traverse, which was exposed enough to turn away my partner. Views here were spectacular, and since I had forgotten the beta and only skimmed it prior to trip, unexpected, making it even exciting. The short and airy traverse leads to another chute on the south side that winds its way up to the crows nest summit. I topped out around 12pm. After spending some time enjoying the summit and it's amazing views I headed down for the long hike back to trail head. We reached the parking lot around 7:30 after spending a couple of frustrating hours scrambling around the rock surrounding Sam Mack meadows looking for the trail back. An awesome first trip to the Palisades and certainly not my last.

I'll upload some videos of the climb later on.

Franky wrote:Middle pal, northeast face is supposed to be mega classic.

IMO that route is crap.

Gayley has a nice scramble (Yellow brick road or SW ridge) which is just across from Swiss Arete and allows you to see Sill and Palisades really well. Also I really liked west ridge of Mt. Robinson. Also has great view of Palisades which most people do not get. You could do both in a day too if you are in reasonably good shape and get up before dawn.

http://www.summitpost.org/west-ridge/640956

http://www.summitpost.org/southwest-rid ... oad/166086

this one also looks nice although I have not done it...
http://www.summitpost.org/east-arete/634376

3Deserts wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote:

Franky wrote:Middle pal, northeast face is supposed to be mega classic.

IMO that route is crap.

I'm curious why you think it's crap.

That route is covered top to bottom with round, softball sized rocks just waiting to take off. The perfect size to be easily knocked loose and still have a serious effect on anyone below.

3Deserts wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote:

Franky wrote:Middle pal, northeast face is supposed to be mega classic.

IMO that route is crap.

I'm curious why you think it's crap.

I thought it is a bit too loose on the way up (took a variation on climbers right). On the way down it was less loose. Would not want to be there if there are people above me. Views are great. Maybe I thought it was crap is because I day hiked Russell and than Middle Pal on the next day. Very hard to match E ridge of Russell by quality and scenery. Although Middle Pal has some nice scenery on the way in (the lakes etc) and has a good view from the top...it didn't live up to my expectations after hearing so much about how great this climb is.