Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Mexico Climbing Partners section.
no avatar
Das Foultier

 
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2005 10:05 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

by Das Foultier » Wed Feb 08, 2006 1:00 pm

Does anyone have experience with, or advice concerning aluminum crampons on the glacier? My wife (130lbs.) has a pair of Grivel aluminum 12 points. They have served well on Colorado spring snow climbs, and she like the idea of the lower weight.
Reading trip reports on Orizaba in late Feb we see a wide range of beta on the ice conditions. We plan to summit on Feb 16th. "Si Dios quiere"
Thanks
Martin

User Avatar
tjbst47

 
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2005 3:33 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

by tjbst47 » Wed Feb 08, 2006 6:17 pm

When I was there in November, we put on crampons before the glacier because it was icy at the time, so we used them on rock also. Aluminum crampons are not good on rock. I wouldn't recommend them.

User Avatar
gobriango

 
Posts: 318
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 1:15 am
Thanked: 17 times in 2 posts

Re: Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

by gobriango » Wed Feb 08, 2006 10:52 pm

I would have liked them when i was there. I would bring them if i had them. Even if it's icey your going to have steps to walk in all the way to the summit ridge.

User Avatar
Haliku

 
Posts: 918
Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2003 11:42 am
Thanked: 1 time in 2 posts

Re: Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

by Haliku » Wed Mar 08, 2006 2:38 am

tjbst47 wrote:When I was there in November, we put on crampons before the glacier because it was icy at the time, so we used them on rock also. Aluminum crampons are not good on rock. I wouldn't recommend them.


I agree. The rock approach won't work with them and the ice can be very solid. People have been blown off the mountain before so don't take the chance. Cheers!

User Avatar
Muddeer

 
Posts: 376
Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2005 2:29 am
Thanked: 3 times in 3 posts

by Muddeer » Wed Mar 08, 2006 3:31 am

i used stubai (all aluminium) and had no problem. but it was in early october, so can't say how they would do in icy months.

but then i have a friend who summited with NO crampons, in april no less....

User Avatar
chris615

 
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2005 11:44 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by chris615 » Wed Mar 08, 2006 7:19 pm

I used the climb high neve crampons from ems this February. i'm pretty sure there steel, too heavy to be aluminum. I put them on just before the Labyrith and I walked around some rock and sand. I'm pretty sure you can rent crampons from hotal Gerar but they are pretty old.

http://www.ems.com/catalog/product_deta ... 1845080435


Return to Mexico, Central America and Caribbean

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests