A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

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A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Simkin » Tue Aug 23, 2016 1:32 am

I recently climbed Mount Emerson waterfall route (5.4) and descended a class 3 route towards Loch Leven. So I did not need a rope.

I wonder are there any more peaks like that. Preferably such that can be done in a day hike from car camping, like aforementioned Emerson.

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Bob Burd » Tue Aug 23, 2016 5:52 am

Some great class 3-5 scrambles that can be day hiked:
Tenya Peak, North Buttress
LeConte, Waterfall route
Clarence King (5.4 summit block)
Cathedral SE Buttress (5.6)
Echo Peaks
Kearsarge Pinnacles, Traverse
Mt. Starr King, SE Face
Eichorn Pinnacle
Norman Clyde NE Face
Clyde Minaret Rock Route
Treasure Peak, Little Lakes Valley (East Ridge)
Two Eagle, East Ridge
Rosy Finch Peak, North Ridge
Mt. Hoffmann, NE Ridge
Laurel Mtn, NE Gully
Mt. Mendel, NE Ridge
Ken Minaret
Riegelhuth Minaret
Kehrlein Minaret
Leonard Minaret
Waller Minaret
Eichorn Minaret
Michael Minaret
Hurd Peak, South Ridge
Mt. Clark, NW Ridge
Mt. Gardiner
Ed Lane Peak, North RIdge
Mt. Robinson
Independence Peak, North RIdge
Mt. Johnson, Traverse from Trapezoid & North Ridge
Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge
Mt. Powell, Traverse from Point Wesley
Deerhorn, NE Ridge
Cockscomb, Tuolumne
Cockscomb, Silver Divide
Mt. Warlow, Traverse from Mt. Fiske
Mt. Huxley, Traverse from Mt. Warlow
South Basin Peak, Traverse from Basin Mtn

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Alpinist » Tue Aug 23, 2016 5:47 pm

Ratings are one thing. Exposure is something entirely different. While some of the routes above are not technically difficult, they are very exposed. A fall from the summit block of Cathedral, for example, would kill you. Same for some of the other peaks. Be sure to do your research before you venture out.

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Simkin » Tue Aug 23, 2016 9:49 pm

Bob Burd wrote:Some great class 3-5 scrambles that can be day hiked:
Tenya Peak, North Buttress
LeConte, Waterfall route
Clarence King (5.4 summit block)
Cathedral SE Buttress (5.6)
Echo Peaks
Kearsarge Pinnacles, Traverse
Mt. Starr King, SE Face
Eichorn Pinnacle
Norman Clyde NE Face
Clyde Minaret Rock Route
Treasure Peak, Little Lakes Valley (East Ridge)
Two Eagle, East Ridge
Rosy Finch Peak, North Ridge
Mt. Hoffmann, NE Ridge
Laurel Mtn, NE Gully
Mt. Mendel, NE Ridge
Ken Minaret
Riegelhuth Minaret
Kehrlein Minaret
Leonard Minaret
Waller Minaret
Eichorn Minaret
Michael Minaret
Hurd Peak, South Ridge
Mt. Clark, NW Ridge
Mt. Gardiner
Ed Lane Peak, North RIdge
Mt. Robinson
Independence Peak, North RIdge
Mt. Johnson, Traverse from Trapezoid & North Ridge
Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge
Mt. Powell, Traverse from Point Wesley
Deerhorn, NE Ridge
Cockscomb, Tuolumne
Cockscomb, Silver Divide
Mt. Warlow, Traverse from Mt. Fiske
Mt. Huxley, Traverse from Mt. Warlow
South Basin Peak, Traverse from Basin Mtn

This is too good to be true.

I climbed Clyde Minaret, but camped at Minaret Lakes. I can't do such thing as a day hike.

According to this site the easiest route for Eichorn Pinnacle is 5.4. One can't descend without a rope. Same for Michael Minaret.

In contrast, Emerson peak has a class 3 descent route and is as close to North Lake drive in campground as the Minarets are to Minaret lakes.

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Bob Burd » Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:47 pm

Simkin wrote:According to this site the easiest route for Eichorn Pinnacle is 5.4. One can't descend without a rope.


Plenty of folks go up and down without a rope. I picked that one because the 5.4 rating matched your Emerson one. The crux on Eichorn has a bolt with a hanger conveniently located. You could bring a carabiner with a sling attached if you wanted the extra safety, hardly weighs anything. If you can solo 5.4 you can do Eichorn without a rope.
Image

Same for Michael Minaret.


Michael Minaret is rated class 4 via Stars Chute, Eichorn Chute, and from The Portal. Should be easier than 5.4, no?
Image

In contrast, Emerson peak has a class 3 descent route and is as close to North Lake drive in campground as the Minarets are to Minaret lakes.


Ok, you want easier day hikes, I kinda missed that. Let's revise the list:
*Tenya Peak, North Buttress
*Cathedral SE Buttress (5.6)
Echo Peaks
Eichorn Pinnacle
*Rosy Finch Peak, North Ridge
*Mt. Hoffmann, NE Ridge
*Laurel Mtn, NE Gully
*Hurd Peak, South Ridge
*Independence Peak, North RIdge
Cockscomb, Tuolumne
We could add a few more though:
*Dozier Dome, Tuolumne
*Peak 9,205ft, Tuolumne
Tresidder Peak, Tuolumne
*Thor Peak, Stemwinder
*Lower Brother (Yosemite Valley), Michael's Ledge
Gunsight (YV)
*El Cap Gully (YV)
*Indian Canyon (YV)
All of these are class 3 to low class 5 with short approaches. With the exception of Eichorn Pinnacle, all have a descent at class 4 or less, most (marked by a "*") much less.
Probably lots more, too...

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Simkin » Wed Aug 24, 2016 8:45 pm

Bob Burd wrote:Image

Looks like class 4.

Bob Burd wrote:Michael Minaret is rated class 4 via Stars Chute, Eichorn Chute, and from The Portal. Should be easier than 5.4, no?

This website lists only the 5.4 Amphitheater route, so it was not obvious.

But this indeed looks like like a nice mountain with a skeleton on a ledge. Is it class 4 from the point where the chutes meet?

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Simkin » Sat Aug 27, 2016 4:27 am

jesu, joy of man's desiring wrote:I've climbed dozens of unroped pitches 5.7 to 5.10, so I feel qualified to make an assessment.

Can I see a video?

jesu, joy of man's desiring wrote:Have you ever seen someone with those kinds of injuries? I have!

Still afraid?

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Simkin » Mon Aug 29, 2016 3:58 am

jesu, joy of man's desiring wrote:^^^
...But we will treat you with gentle "Special Ed" kid gloves, cause you're an Eastern Euro

What school did you attend and what was the GPA?

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by MoapaPk » Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:50 pm

Go up the NE ridge of Bear Creak Spire and come down Ulrich's route, preferably with 60m rope. If in that area, go up the N face of Rosy Finch and down the South.

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Simkin » Tue Aug 30, 2016 7:45 pm

MoapaPk wrote:Go up the NE ridge of Bear Creak Spire and come down Ulrich's route, preferably with 60m rope.

Sounds interesting. This site, however, rates it 5.2-5.6. What is the real rating?

Bob Burd wrote:*Tenya Peak, North Buttress

Logistically this is great. But it's a slick dome. Probably about 45% slope. Would have been class 2 or 3 if it was not slick.

I hiked Lembert dome from the parking lot. At some point I started slipping. To make it I ran uphill from ledge to ledge. Probably one could do Tenaya the same way. Or use rubber elbow and knee pads of the sort the cavers are using. This way one could just crawl it.

Bob Burd wrote:*Independence Peak, North RIdge

This one I did, but it is class 4.

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by MoapaPk » Wed Aug 31, 2016 4:36 pm

Simkin wrote:
MoapaPk wrote:Go up the NE ridge of Bear Creak Spire and come down Ulrich's route, preferably with 60m rope.

Sounds interesting. This site, however, rates it 5.2-5.6. What is the real rating?



I'm guessing the 5.6 is for the summit block; the register is actually below the summit block. I've seen the block rated 5.6, but it is much easier-- it just has horrible exposure. I climbed it unbelayed, and looped a rope around (it's very small) so I could handline down the north side. If you have two people, throw a rope over the summit block to the SE side, and belay each other-- it's not a great position, but it will stop a mild fall.

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by mrchad9 » Wed Aug 31, 2016 11:13 pm

Bear Creek Spire summit block is class 4!

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Simkin » Wed Aug 31, 2016 11:28 pm

MoapaPk wrote:I'm guessing the 5.6 is for the summit block; the register is actually below the summit block. I've seen the block rated 5.6, but it is much easier-- it just has horrible exposure. I climbed it unbelayed, and looped a rope around (it's very small) so I could handline down the north side. If you have two people, throw a rope over the summit block to the SE side, and belay each other-- it's not a great position, but it will stop a mild fall.

How would you rate the summit block and the rest of the route?

Image
Seems if you could grab the ridge while standing on the upper ledge the climb is easy. Perhaps the discrepancy in ratings comes from different heights of the climbers?

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by Bob Burd » Thu Sep 01, 2016 4:40 am

Simkin wrote:Seems if you could grab the ridge while standing on the upper ledge the climb is easy. Perhaps the discrepancy in ratings comes from different heights of the climbers?


Tall people have an advantage on this one. The guys here are 6'2"
Image
Image

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Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by MoapaPk » Thu Sep 01, 2016 2:23 pm

Actually he was looking at the rating for the NE FACE, not the NE Ridge

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