Hey All,

Would love to hear your thoughts on the Black Diamond Venom vs the Petzl Summit Evo. Though I suspect not many have used the Evo as it is relatively new.

This will be my first ice axe, as I rented a BD Raven for the DC route. I am required to have a hybrid axe for my trip up the Kautz with Alpine Ascents.

I had decided on the Summit Evo some time ago, but now that I know about SP why not ask

The Summit Evo looks like the bend is at a more mid position for holding in the mid dagger position (not that Ive actually had to do that yet), and the shaft is ergonomically shaped for holding in mid dagger. It also looks easier to carry from the head (wider for one thing) than the Venom.

The Venom is attractive to me in one regard, that I can interchange a classic axe pick with a reverse curve technical pick depending on the route. However Im thinking that if I truly get into 'ice climbing' Ill want two ice tools anyway.

Also, I am 5'10.5" with slightly shorter arms. Would the 59cm Summit Evo/57cm Venom be the correct length for routes like the Kautz, Liberty Ridge, and standard routes? Or would a shorter length be more appropriate for the Kautz and Liberty, and then get a longer axe for the 'walk-ups'? (I know, its going to be a while before I should attempt LR )

Thanks

In my opinion around 60 cm is just fine for you.

There are a lot of moderate hybrids out there, from BD, Petzl, Grivel, and others. I have an eye on price, weight, brand.

Advantage of the Venom is, that it is agressive with the steep blade. You can then use it for parts of ice climbing together with another real ice tool. And it is lightweight, and cheap. The Summit Evo looks very moderate.

I find it necessary to have a normal or quite moderate hybrid, because it is even more hard to brake with a steep blade. Of course if you are in the ice/frozen, you will be happier, the more aggressive the blade. But even with the most common axe you can still cling to it, much more, than with nothing

Is the Summit Evo T-rated? I've never used one but it held comfortably at the store. A buddy of mine uses the standard Summit axe and he pairs it with a Venom hammer on Hood and other steeper routes. I think the Grivel Evo is worth taking a look at as well.

Regarding length, I've seen folks take 75 cm axes up the Old Chute and Pearly Gates before. I think ~60 cm is a good place to start for anyone under 6'. I'm 6'2" and use a 66 cm axe. If I was in your shoes I'd go with a Venom hammer and eventually get a standard straight handled walk-up axe to pair it with. I've never climbed LR but I've heard of people using everything from a single walking axe to paired ice tools. A walking axe and smaller tool goes a long way though.

staringcontest wrote:Is the Summit Evo T-rated? I've never used one but it held comfortably at the store. A buddy of mine uses the standard Summit axe and he pairs it with a Venom hammer on Hood and other steeper routes. I think the Grivel Evo is worth taking a look at as well.

Regarding length, I've seen folks take 75 cm axes up the Old Chute and Pearly Gates before. I think ~60 cm is a good place to start for anyone under 6'. I'm 6'2" and use a 66 cm axe. If I was in your shoes I'd go with a Venom hammer and eventually get a standard straight handled walk-up axe to pair it with. I've never climbed LR but I've heard of people using everything from a single walking axe to paired ice tools. A walking axe and smaller tool goes a long way though.

Thanks. The Summit Evo is B rated, not sure if that is due to the head, shaft, or both.

I noticed the Venom is a full 4oz heavier than the Evo.

Tough call!

I do have the Petzl Summit Evo, and it is a fantastically gorgeous tool. I've owned 4 pairs of Chouinard/BD ice tools, 4 pairs of Charlet-Moser/Petzl ice tools, one pair of Grivel Ice Tools, one SMC/REI ice axe, one SMC Himalayan North Wall Hammer, and one Grivel ice axe.

For ice axes/piolets, the Petzl Summit Evo is the nicest axe I have owned. It is a work of art. It is more performant on steep alpine terrain than my previous piolet, a first generation Grivel Air Tech Racing, which my partner also owned and used on Mt Hunter in Alaska (AK Grade IV+) as well as on water ice up to WI 4. The Summit Evo is much better than the light weight, straight shafted Air Tech Racing with a just a small weight penalty.

60 cm is the correct length for you. Coupled with a 50cm hammer (Petzl Sum'Tec would be my recommendation) would be a perfect combination for moderately technical alpine routes like Liberty Ridge or NR of Mt. Baker. Routes like Liberty Ridge and NR Baker require a lot of lower angle climbing where a full length piolet is much more comfortable to use than a 50 cm tool. Kautz doubly so. Paired with a technical hammer for the steep bits and you get a really effective combination.

I climbed routes far more technically demanding (up to WI 4, M6) with an old SMC/REI axe and North Wall hammer BITD. The modern version for me is the Petzl Summit Evo and a Black Diamond Carbon Fiber Black Prophet hammer. There are only a couple of routes on Mt Rainer that I would not climb with this combination including Sunset Amphitheatre Headwall, (F.A. John Roskelly and Jeff Lowe) and Curtis Ridge, which I used a pair of matched ice tools for. Even steeper routes like Coleman Headwall on Mt. Baker or North Face of Mt. Shuksan I used a 60 cm piolet and hammer combination on, and would do so again.

ExcitableBoy wrote:I do have the Petzl Summit Evo, and it is a fantastically gorgeous tool. I've owned 4 pairs of Chouinard/BD ice tools, 4 pairs of Charlet-Moser/Petzl ice tools, one pair of Grivel Ice Tools, one SMC/REI ice axe, one SMC Himalayan North Wall Hammer, and one Grivel ice axe.

For ice axes/piolets, the Petzl Summit Evo is the nicest axe I have owned. It is a work of art. It is more performant on steep alpine terrain than my previous piolet, a first generation Grivel Air Tech Racing, which my partner also owned and used on Mt Hunter in Alaska (AK Grade IV+) as well as on water ice up to WI 4. The Summit Evo is much better than the light weight, straight shafted Air Tech Racing with a just a small weight penalty.

60 cm is the correct length for you. Coupled with a 50cm hammer (Petzl Sum'Tec would be my recommendation) would be a perfect combination for moderately technical alpine routes like Liberty Ridge or NR of Mt. Baker. Routes like Liberty Ridge and NR Baker require a lot of lower angle climbing where a full length piolet is much more comfortable to use than a 50 cm tool. Kautz doubly so. Paired with a technical hammer for the steep bits and you get a really effective combination.

I climbed routes far more technically demanding (up to WI 4, M6) with an old SMC/REI axe and North Wall hammer BITD. The modern version for me is the Petzl Summit Evo and a Black Diamond Carbon Fiber Black Prophet hammer. There are only a couple of routes on Mt Rainer that I would not climb with this combination including Sunset Amphitheatre Headwall, (F.A. John Roskelly and Jeff Lowe) and Curtis Ridge, which I used a pair of matched ice tools for. Even steeper routes like Coleman Headwall on Mt. Baker or North Face of Mt. Shuksan I used a 60 cm piolet and hammer combination on, and would do so again.

Most helpful post on this topic that I could imagine. Thanks!