A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

by **Simkin** » Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:14 am

From there, it appeared that a poorly protected traverse was required. I scramble the initial 10 feet before roping up, in which Bob states, he was not willing to carry an additional plaque in my behalf.

http://www.climber.org/reports/2003/1205.html

by **Simkin** » Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:24 am

Bob Burd wrote:LeConte, Waterfall route

Nice mountain. I climbed Northeast face and descended via West ridge. Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNDGTjf_y2I

by **Simkin** » Fri Oct 07, 2016 4:46 am

MoapaPk wrote: go up the N face of Rosy Finch and down the South.

Nice mountain. Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ktgnUqTGBQ

by **powderjunkie** » Fri Oct 07, 2016 6:20 pm

Yikes at 8:40.

Were you trailing a rope?

That peak always looked like a pile to me and the video may have reinforced that opinion.

by **Simkin** » Wed Oct 12, 2016 5:43 pm

powderjunkie wrote:Were you trailing a rope?

I used a rope to pull up the backpack.

powderjunkie wrote:That peak always looked like a pile to me

Yes. Bear Creek Spire has much better rock. Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhghULqnDV4

by **Simkin** » Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:01 pm

For some reason nobody mentioned Crystal Crag, which is an ideal one especially if you camp at Lake George.

Here is the video of climbing the North Arete (5.6): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obhTD42JJK0

by **Daria** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 8:26 pm

Bob Burd wrote:Ok, you want easier day hikes, I kinda missed that.

Yea, most people can't dayhike Deerhorn.

:lol:

by **Daria** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 8:45 pm

Alpinist wrote:Ratings are one thing. Exposure is something entirely different. While some of the routes above are not technically difficult, they are very exposed. A fall from the summit block of Cathedral, for example, would kill you. Same for some of the other peaks. Be sure to do your research before you venture out.

Burds list is a great list. Also I wud suggest Palisade Crest. It is one of my all-time favorites. I used a rope on the 4th class ramp leading to the summit and rappelled it cus I'm a chicken shit, but you cud prob free solo the RAMP.

Also, Mt. Haeckel offers some exciting class 4 options and you can then come down the easy class 3 down to Haeckel-Wallace saddle.

Also, just a heads up: Burds list is good list. Use it for reference or inspiration or as you see fit. Or ramp up your training as these are all reasonably dayhikable. Unless of course you prefer not to dayhike some of them---which I don't blame you---suffering and all.

by **Daria** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 8:54 pm

Simkin wrote: Probably one could do Tenaya the same way. Or use rubber elbow and knee pads of the sort the cavers are using. This way one could just crawl it.

No-Tenaya is a 5 star scramble. In terms of impeccable hand holds and the line is just beautiful. It's such a stellar scramble if you want very sustained scrambling on solid rock. 5 star scramble up (class 4 and no harder than 5.2 maybe for short crux moves) and easy way down.

The following user would like to thank Daria for this post
Simkin

by **Simkin** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 3:40 am

Daria wrote:I used a rope on the 4th class ramp leading to the summit and rappelled it cus I'm a chicken shit,

I think you are just more honest that other members of this forum. I already posted a video from Crystal Crag where I passed roped climbers traversing a class 3-4 ridge. In this video I met a team which roped up for a class 4 traverse from Cathedral summit to West face:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxTvo_N2GSw

I think that a vast majority of climbers rope up for class 4.

Daria wrote: but you cud prob free solo the RAMP.

Probably? I free-soloed a 5.6.

Daria wrote:Also, just a heads up: Burds list is good list. Use it for reference or inspiration or as you see fit. Or ramp up your training as these are all reasonably dayhikable.

Especially Michael minaret. I suspect that nobody ever did it as a dayhike. Especially the route suggested by Bob: free soloing the Amphitheater chute and descending Starrs chute. He definitely did not do it himself. In reality he did it as a multi-day hike. Ascended Amphitheater chute using a rope and rappelled down the same chute.

Daria wrote:Unless of course you prefer not to dayhike some of them---which I don't blame you---suffering and all.

I certainly do not go to the mountains to suffer. In addition if you are so tired that you are suffering - it is also dangerous.

by **Bob Burd** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 4:09 am

Simkin wrote:Especially Michael minaret. I suspect that nobody ever did it as a dayhike. Especially the route suggested by Bob: free soloing the Amphitheater chute and descending Starrs chute. He definitely did not do it himself. In reality he did it as a multi-day hike. Ascended Amphitheater chute using a rope and rappelled down the same chute.

You would be wrong. http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/michael_minaret_2.html
Day 2 of the 2006 Sierra Challenge. The trick is to ascend the Rock Route on Michael Minaret, traverse to Eichorn Minaret and then do Michael. Then you can rap Amphitheater Chute when you're done and return via South Notch. All under 13hrs. The really good people can do it in less than 10hrs, while the entire set of 14-16 minarets have been climbed in a day by the likes of Peter Croft and Josh Shwartz.

by **Simkin** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:37 pm

Bob Burd wrote:
Simkin wrote:Especially Michael minaret. I suspect that nobody ever did it as a dayhike. Especially the route suggested by Bob: free soloing the Amphitheater chute and descending Starrs chute. He definitely did not do it himself. In reality he did it as a multi-day hike. Ascended Amphitheater chute using a rope and rappelled down the same chute.

You would be wrong. http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/michael_minaret_2.html
Day 2 of the 2006 Sierra Challenge. The trick is to ascend the Rock Route on Michael Minaret, traverse to Eichorn Minaret and then do Michael. Then you can rap Amphitheater Chute when you're done and return via South Notch. All under 13hrs.

OK, you climbed Michael minaret in a day hike. But this is not the route you suggested me. You suggested to free solo the Amphitheater chute (5.4) and descend one of class 4 chutes on the other side. And presented it with the air that there is nothing special in it and almost everybody here have done it.

In reality you climbed that route in a multi-day hike and used a rope. You also insisted that your buddy roped up for the chute so you do not have to carry the second plate. And you rappelled down the same Amphitheater chute.

Bob Burd wrote: The really good people can do it in less than 10hrs

I had used Dr. Dirtbag website while readying for the North Arete of Crystal Crag which I had free-soloed. Not everyone had done it. Some folks got to the chimney and turned back. May be I will become good? Sooner Colorado river will flow backwards and sky will fall on earth.

by **Scott Barnes** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:33 am

Simkin wrote:OK, you climbed Michael minaret in a day hike. But this is not the route you suggested me. You suggested to free solo the Amphitheater chute (5.4) and descend one of class 4 chutes on the other side.

When parsing arguments it's sometimes useful to clarify all of the factual assertions first. Doing so can remove extraneous clauses and helps ensure nobody is responding to contentions that were never made. Simkin, I'm trying to follow the logic of the argument, but I confess I'm getting a bit lost at the start. Admittedly I'm a bit tired, and I'm going to be quite embarrassed if I've missed this one, but where is the suggestion that you free solo Amphitheater Chute? This may simply be a case of people talking past one another without any points of contention genuinely at issue.

by **Simkin** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:11 pm

Similar to great scientists who do not read the papers they cite members of this forum do not read the threads where they post.

by **Bob Burd** » Sat Aug 26, 2017 1:26 am

Scott Barnes wrote: but where is the suggestion that you free solo Amphitheater Chute?

Of course there was no such statement, ever. I think he may have misread this one:

Bob Burd wrote:Michael Minaret is rated class 4 via Stars Chute, Eichorn Chute, and from The Portal. Should be easier than 5.4, no?

where the "5.4" was referring to the Emerson rating. I was suggesting one of the class 4 routes. In fact, Amphitheater Chute is more like 5.6 or 5.7, nothing close to the 5.4 rating given in Secor.

Simkin wrote:Similar to great scientists who do not read the papers they cite members of this forum do not read the threads where they post.

No, just the opposite. Scott was trying to read and comprehend, but some of the statements were simply false and thus confusing.

A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

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