Hi all! I'll be heading to Mexico over Christmas, for a three week visit. I'd like to take a few days to climb Citlaltepetl. I'm looking for input on various practicalities, and how I should schedule the climb, given my previous experience.
Previous high altitude experience:
My most recent and relevant experience was Kazbek in the Caucasus (5033 m / 16512 ft, http://www.summitpost.org/mount-kazbek/154019), which I climbed in 2015. I did this over four days:
Day 1: Hike to basecamp at 3600 meters (12 000 ft).
Day 2: Acclimatization, including quick hike up to 4000 meters and back.
Day 3: Summit day.
Day 4: Return to civilization.
I experienced no obvious symptoms of AMS, but the sense of physical exertion got very noticeable from apx. 4500 meters (14 700 ft). A week ahead of Kazbek, I hiked through the Svaneti mountains, where, at one point, I reached almost 3000 meters (10 000 ft), which I suppose might have had some effect on my acclimatization.
1. Climbing schedule: Given the above, could I reasonably hope to climb Citlaltepetl after spending a full day acclimatizing at the Refugio (or thereabouts)? In other words, arrive there at Day 1, spend Day 2 at the Refugio (perhaps including a day hike to a higher elevation), and then summit on Day 3? Not asking for a guarantee here, just an estimate of whether this is realistic. Otherwise, I can set aside more time.
2. Guide/outfitter: I'd like to have a guide, both for the mountain and sorting the practicalities. I've seen a few offerings online, such as Orizaba Mountain Guides, offering 4-5 day packages at around 5-600 USD per person, starting in Tlachichuca/San Miguel Zoapan. Is this what I'd have to pay no matter what? I ask because from my experiences elsewhere, quotes on English-language websites oriented towards international tourists have often been drastically higher than the prices you could get if you just book your hike there and then. Moreover, which outfitters are recommended? I've seen Orizaba Mountain Guides, Mexico Extreme and Servimont receive favorable mentions around these forums over the years. Are they still good? Understand, I'm willing to pay the cost of a good service, but I'd rather not needlessly pay double.
3. Finding climbing partners: I'd rather do this as part of a small group with a guide (or a larger group with several guides). How easy is it to find someone to climb with, and if so, where? Upon arriving Tlachichuca, or the Refugio, could I easily expect to find a group to join, or other singles to form a group with? Both for the social and economic aspect of it.
4. Gear: I have a pair of crampon-compatible La Sportiva Trango Guide Evo GTX boots. Is there any reason for me to buy and bring my own crampons/ice axe/harness from home, or will I get appropriate gear provided from whichever outfiter I do this with? Moreover, would I need to bring a sleeping bag from home for use at the Refugio? If possible I'd like to avoid lugging any extra volume and weight and around Mexico during the remaining two+ weeks of my trip there
5. Weather: What kind of wind/temperatures/weather should I be prepared for on the summit day (and night), in the first half of January?