Elbrus via The West Face/West Buttress

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Europe. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Europe Climbing Partners section.
User Avatar
Thrusthamster

 
Posts: 115
Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:08 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Elbrus via The West Face/West Buttress

by Thrusthamster » Sat Oct 22, 2016 12:05 pm

I got a tip on another forum about this route because when I go to Elbrus I'd like to do something a bit more challenging than a straight slog. I thought about doing a winter ascent, which some outfits have, but doing a more technical route could be even better. Does anyone know more about this, it's extremely hard to find info online. There are two guide companies offering it, AlexClimb and ExtremeTime.ru. It's supposed to be challenging, but not exactly hard. I've seen one place rate it PD+ for pure technical difficulty, though the descriptions make it sound more like AD to D considering how long it is.

Elbrustours.ru offered it once and posted this image of the route, it's the only one I've seen Image.

Does anyone here know anything about it?

User Avatar
Yury

 
Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 9:49 pm
Thanked: 131 times in 79 posts

Re: Elbrus via The West Face/West Buttress

by Yury » Mon Oct 24, 2016 1:45 am

Yes, it's extremely difficult.
It's very steep - up to 30%.
There are quite a few creavasses, so you need to use a rope.
You also need to use crampons and an ice axe. :)

The following user would like to thank Yury for this post
Thrusthamster

User Avatar
Thrusthamster

 
Posts: 115
Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:08 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Elbrus via The West Face/West Buttress

by Thrusthamster » Mon Oct 24, 2016 11:44 am

Yury wrote:Yes, it's extremely difficult.
It's very steep - up to 30%.
There are quite a few creavasses, so you need to use a rope.
You also need to use crampons and an ice axe. :)

Is there belaying involved, or simul-climbing, or more or less just a steep hike when roped up? Have you done it?

User Avatar
Yury

 
Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 9:49 pm
Thanked: 131 times in 79 posts

Re: Elbrus via The West Face/West Buttress

by Yury » Tue Oct 25, 2016 1:06 am

No, my post was based on recollection of what I have read elsewhere.

BTW, there is no cell phone coverage in this area.
One well known Ukrainian mountaineer Vladimir Mogila (FYI his route on Trango Tower http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP05/climbing-note-mogila) has died at 3900 m elevation due to HAPE on this route because of delayed rescue.

Jokes aside, you just need to have a friend or a guide who is comfortable on such snow/ice.
Just in case carry a satellite phone with you.

This ridge is exposed to wind.
You need to have a good weather forecast and strong enough tent.

User Avatar
Wandering Yooper

 
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2018 7:05 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Elbrus via The West Face/West Buttress

by Wandering Yooper » Wed May 08, 2019 8:19 pm

I'm still hoping to do this route myself, so if anyone tries it, please post a report or reach out to me personally. Until then, anyone looking for a good adventure can seek to copy the route I did last summer. It has the same start point of Khurzuk and Jele Soo West. It then goes through some awesome terrain for three days as you travel south to Khotutau Pass on the SW side of the mountain. From there you travel north on the west side of the mountain until you intersect the NW route just below the West Summit. I posted a detailed trip report titled "Elbrus from the West(ish)" complete with GPS data.


Return to Europe

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests