16 of us from the Outdoorsclub (outdoorsclub.org) bagged Mt San Antonio from Baldy Village on the Bear Canyon trail in 4 to 4 and a half hours - 5800 ft of elevation gain in eight miles.

Sergio Verdina and I attempted the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak in the spectacular Southern Picket range of the Cascades this weekend. The approach was a BRUTAL 6,000+ foot punishingly steep trail up through timber to reach our campsight, via the Goodell Creek climbers path. Unfortuntely, it was 90 degrees and humid at the 600 foot elevation trailhead, and we were wiped out after 7+ hours of punishment.

We woke up on Sunday and gave it a shot. The start of the ridge is still a long way from the campsight. We scrambled up slabs to the base of the glacier, but found it to be very heavily crevassed with some icefall. We could not find a way through. It looks as if you could traverse way to the west below the South Face of Mount Terror, get above the icefall, then traverse back to Inspiration. We ran out of time.

The Nelson and Potterfield guide says 2-3 days for this trip. I can't believe 2 days would be possible unless you had a supreme fitness level.

Man, I am sore!

Here is a shot of one of the crevasses we encountered.

<img src="http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5475Crevasse_1.jpg">

Well, we just got back from successfully climbing Bear Creek Spire's North Arete'. Wow! I really underestimated that 5th pitch "5.8 off-width". Getting started into it was demanding enough! Seemed a bit tough....maybe it was the altitude?!? My hats off to Debbi for climbing that section with a loaded pack!! My personal highlight of the route was the 1st pitch 5.8 hand crack......fun climbing! As for the 2nd pitch flakes...... a tad bit confusing but we read it well enough. Not as exciting as I had hoped. We found the "key hole" above pitch 5 but I expected it to be just 30 or 40 feet above it. Instead, it was around the right corner and about 100 feet up, next to the right facing wall. Left a few "surprises up there (HA!). The altitude was making my bowels go to town! Sorry future parties....couldn't help it!

BTW, I'm a bit confused by <A HREF="http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/photo_link.pl/p/photo_id__161228__object_id__494__type__mountain__mountain_id__494__route_id____user_id____order_by____limit__">Dave K's photo of Misha and Pavel at the beginning of pitch 5</a>. Where you guys are positioned in the photo, did you guys start there and go straight up? We climbed the obvious, dark "chimney/offwidth" on the headwall, 30 feet right of where you were positioned.

In this photo of Pierre St. Croix, we climbed the 'corner crack' just above him. Input?

<IMG SRC="http://www.summitpost.org/images/171859.JPG">

Steve -

The photo of you leading pitch 5 doesn't look like what I did. Don't remember any positive cracks supporting any stemming until I was almost finished : P

Dave,

Welcome to the "off-route club"! Sounds like you did a fun/challenging variation, though. More than I can say for our adventure on Clyde Minaret...

Wow! Don't I feel like a welcome member (HA!) That thing was fairly hard. A very awkward start and fairly strenuous : P . I was panting, whining, cussing and losing a little blood along the way. This can't be the 5.10 variation, is it? It wasn't "thin" (jams were pretty good), just damn steep and sustained!!

What happened on SE Face of Clyde??

We did a false start on the direct variation, then bailed after a bit of thrashing. The climbing felt weird and neither of us felt at the top of our game. So we headed for the regular start. After the traverse pitch we immediately (in retrospect) started getting off route by trending too far right. By the time we figured this out it was 1:00. We knew we could handle the climbing, but we were concerned about the weather, and the climbing was much harder than the advertised 5.8. So we bailed. Five sketchy raps to the ground and a long walk out. That face is really complex!

Don't sweat it Steve. That very thing happened to me and my partner Roger Hayashi too. Except we got a late start and managed only to finish the first 2 pitches of the direct start . The weather then got ugly and we bailed. We ended up giving it a try the very next year and walked away successful. I know the feeling.

BTW, I think Deb and I are going to wrap up the technical climbing season and do some 3rd/4th class scrambling until it snows. Her arm has been jacked up for over a month and needs some rest. Think we'll head to TM to do the Cathedral "loop" over Columbus Day weekend (if it doesn't snow by then).....

Dave, sorry to hear about Deb's arm!

Busy
Got out of Portland 4pm Friday after work.
Got to trailhead Saturday at noon.
Got to Cirque of Towers at 4pm.
Got up at 8am Sunday and climbed NE Face on Pingora.
Got up 7am Monday.
Got to trailhead at noon.
Got to Portland 13 hrs later ~2am.
Got to work (to post on SP) 9am Monday.

Radek, way to go man! Did you by any chance run into my friend Jason in the Cirque? He was there this weekend and Pingora was on his agenda.

Martin & Mishell Cash came through Vancouver on Saturday, and we had a wonderful afternoon of sightseeing, eating, drinking, and socializing. Had a really great time. SummitPost rocks!

Went mountain biking Sun & Mon.

Heck yeah! We had a great time as well. It was great to meet you Eileen, and thanks again for the tour and accomodations. Ever climbed Tantalus or one of those big peaks on the west side of highway 99? Damn! Let's go hit a couple next year!

I've been to Lake Lovely water, but not up the peaks there. I have climbed Garibaldi.

I'm totally in for next year. June is probably the best month. (unless we have no snow again this winter, in which case, April or May)

We'll definitely make some plans.

EB

Radek and Shirley -

You guys are awesome! Way to go on "The Circus"! How was the rock quality?

<i> Where you guys are positioned in the photo, did you guys start there and go straight up?</i>

Dave, I think that you can only see me on this photo, belaying Pavel. Pavel is in the dark chimney above the crux, probably about 100' up.

Dave,
Thank you very much The rock quality is very good. The climbing on that route is good I'd say. Personally, I thought that East Ridge on Wolfs Head (even though it's easier technically) is a more fun/spectacular climb. But this one wasn't bad either (a little monotonous on the lower half). I find the climbing there a bit stressful as the weather keeps rolling by (and rolling in) - backing off that route above P2 = much gear for raps.

Misha,
<i>Did you by any chance run into my friend Jason in the Cirque? </i>
hmmmmm....ran into 2 guys on Sunday doing NE Face. They were from So. Cali. Nice and friendly. We b.s.'ed around at belays but I unfortunately don't recall their names anymore?? They were on a 18 month road trip. Would these be the guys you're talking about?