Getting ready to build the "rack of iron" and wanted some advice from "nailers" about what are the best common sizes to consider. Common sense tells me stick to medium angles and LA's. Eveything small should be mid-size blades. But experience speaks volumes regarding this and I'm still a nube to the walls.

Any help? Craig? Bruce? DMT? JD? Rob?

Dave Daly wrote:Getting ready to build the "rack of iron" and wanted some advice from "nailers" about what are the best common sizes to consider. Common sense tells me stick to medium angles and LA's. Eveything small should be mid-size blades. But experience speaks volumes regarding this and I'm still a nube to the walls.

Any help? Craig? Bruce? DMT? JD? Rob?

Not a good long term idea as a good set of cams will cost less in the long run. not to mention that they weigh less, cause no damage, are easier and more flexable to place and in some cases much stronger. If you really want to become Mr. unpopular in you local area just start hammering pins in the wall.

Besides the obvious 'retro-cool' factor what do you want to use them for?

Thanks for the advice. But I'm aware of where I should and shouldn't place pins in this day in age. However, when it comes to obscurities and non-trade routes, pins are handy for an FA or even a second or third ascents on walls. I've got a large free rack and have used it for clean aid. So, thanks....but the question remains.

What I meant as far as being a nube to walls is a reference to big walls....not common climbing areas.

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I'm not a prolific wall rat, but I do recall when doing Mescalito, on El Cap, that these long straight "knifeblade" cracks (too thin for the tiniest cams and too parallel for nutting) went fast and easy with camhooks. I wouldn't get on any kind of nailing route with two pairs of those baby's.

hi Dave

Wasn't sure what you were going to use them for. Your best bet would be to check out the route you want to climb and see what is needed and buy as you go. You will after a few years get a rather large rack of them.

Though my rack is rather small now as all I have used in the past few years were some knifeblades and a extra long lost arrow all during winter ascents. These sort of cover off what regular pro can't cover.

Most of the Big-wall types I know use the occasional angle flat pin for belay and bivy stations and some rare times when nothing else will do.

The other main use is in the alpine environment when the routes are semi-fixed with gear to aid guides etc.

So I would stick with the knife-blades. Learning how to put in a copperhead is a good skill too.

cheers

Oh yeah one thing I forgot what this good link

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/pdfs/Pitoncraft.pdf

JD wrote:Dave, I've probably nailed fewer pins than you.

I lost you there Jim....sarcasm or fact?

Dave, if you become familiar with the craft of nailing it will complement your clean aid skills and help prepare you for some long routes. Ya gotta learn by doing the nailing on many shorter routes because pin placement and removal can have as many subtleties as placing a nut or tricam or other device. If you seldom use pins you will also not learn some of the things-not-to-do with them. So go ahead and explore this new/old territory.

HandjamMasterC wrote:Daves nailed about a dozen with me if I remember correctly, and cleaned 2 dozen of mine ( including some stacks ).

Oh yeah one thing I forgot what this good link

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/p ... ncraft.pdf

This is quite good - thanks for posting it !!!

You should check out the other articles on their website. Lots of good stuff.

JD - I don't think that it's the "Canadian" pdf's that are the problem!

Someone on neice.com recommended that PDF to me when I asked about pitons on ice / mixed lines (I was able to print it out no problem - let me know if you want a copy Jim). I hate to digress, but does anyone of that, uh, persuasion have recommendations on what to carry ? I'm thinking of picking up a couple to practice placing / cleaning in places like Lee Vining Canyon, roadcuts, etc.

For Ice I usually keep a few bugaboo knife-blades as they are the only things that go into thin cracks securely and are relatively light and easy to place.

That being said I haven't place one ice or mixed climbing in about 5 years and I alway leave them behind well for the two times I place one I did.

I always find it strange that climbers who would never in a 1000 years nail a pin in summer will place then in the winter??? A very funny case of situational ethics.

cheers