Izta: Glacier de Ayoloco

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Mexico Climbing Partners section.
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Izta: Glacier de Ayoloco

by weeds19 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 5:22 am

I'm heading to Mexico for some climbing in about 10 days, and our plan includes climbing Izta via the Glacier de Ayoloco route. My partners and I have had a lot of discussion about the route and necessary gear. Will snow/ice protection be necessary? How is the Ayoloco hut? How's the hike in to the hut? Any information concerning the route would be appreciated, as I've only been able to find a few trip reports.


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robot one

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by robot one » Tue Dec 19, 2006 5:44 am

The ayoloco glacier route has no glacier at this time of year. It is a walk/scramble to where the route joins the arista del sol. You cross an icefield to get to the summit but don't need crampons or ice axe. There is much less traffic on the route and is quite nice. You can find water on the route but it is out of the way. There is ice around the hut that might be melted but people have shat all over the place and it is hard to tell what's comtaminated and what isn't. Best to carry your water. The hut is cozy and the mice aren't too bad but there is usually shit and trash everywhere outside. The hike into the hut is EXCELLENT. The path is easy to find and very scenic. Of the two routes that I have done, this is the one that i would choose if i were to do it again.

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