I have read that there shall be bolts at the SW ridge of Schreckhorn.
Is this true? What are the distances between the bolts?
How can I secure best in this route? By friends, chocks or by tape slings?

Hello,

I climbed the SW-ridge of Schreckhorn last July but don't recall any bolts. Or maybe there was a few which I may have used for rappels. Not sure however.

Anyway, the climb is not very difficult. The rock is solid with good holds all the way. Well, there is some loose scree near the summit but for roped up party it is not anything to bother yourself with. I felt very secure climbing free (solo) all the way. It is a long route so You should not spend too much time belaying but rather simul-climbing and short-roping. A few webbing slings and maybe a set of nuts would be okay if you want to place some pro in the most exposed sections.

Please visit my site for some photos which unfortunately do not tell much about the route: http://www.samulimansikka.com/alppikiip ... index.html

Hope this was for any help. Keep the questions coming if You have something in mind.

Samuli
Helsinki, Finland

Samuli Mansikka wrote:Hello,

I climbed the SW-ridge of Schreckhorn last July but don't recall any bolts. Or maybe there was a few which I may have used for rappels. Not sure however.

Anyway, the climb is not very difficult. The rock is solid with good holds all the way. Well, there is some loose scree near the summit but for roped up party it is not anything to bother yourself with. I felt very secure climbing free (solo) all the way. It is a long route so You should not spend too much time belaying but rather simul-climbing and short-roping. A few webbing slings and maybe a set of nuts would be okay if you want to place some pro in the most exposed sections.

Please visit my site for some photos which unfortunately do not tell much about the route: http://www.samulimansikka.com/alppikiip ... index.html

Hope this was for any help. Keep the questions coming if You have something in mind.

Samuli
Helsinki, Finland

Thanks for your help, Samuli.
Hope that the weather will be ok then!
Cheers,
Thomas

Hallo Thomas,

der Schreckhorn SW-Grat ist im SAC Führer mit 6-7 Stunden nur für den Aufstieg angegeben. Diese Zeitangabe ist ohne Sichern. Für den Abstieg ist in etwa die gleiche Zeit veranschlagt. In der Summe also 12 bis 14 Stunden hoch und wieder runter.

Um diese Zeiten zu schaffen, muß man schon fix, absolut fit und top akklimatisiert unterwegs sein.

Wenn Du auf einer Tour sicherst, verdoppeln sich die Zeitangaben des SAC Führers als Faustwert. Das deckt sich auch mit meinen eigenen Erfahrungen (z. B. Mönch Überschreitung, etc.).
Du wirst m. E. bei dieser Tour mit Sicherheit in die Dunkelheit kommen, wenn Du da sicherst und dann mit hoher Wahrscheinlichkeit bivakieren müssen.

Gruß aus Gerlingen, Niklas

Hi T,

Na ganz klar,

Den ganzen Krempel daheim lassen und fix rauf und runter spurten!
Aber denk dran, ist ne andere Kategorie als Lagginhorn und Co!

Viel Spass!

Sebastian

Thanks for all your info´s!
We´ll see what we climb... Depends on many things, weather, temperature,etc.
You´ll see at SP what we have done!
Cheers,
Thomas

“Just like the Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger, just longer”, someone said. Had I been 10, 20 or 30 years younger I wouldn’t have said no if you had asked me to tie in.
Anyway good luck!
/Hans