Unclimbed 5000/6000m peaks in Nepal

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Unclimbed 5000/6000m peaks in Nepal

by Bart » Tue May 06, 2008 3:06 pm

Hi guys,

Out of curiosity I was browsing the net to see if I could find anything on unclimbed peaks around the 5000 - 6000m range. I was wondering if it is still possible to find unclimbed peaks and was thinking that with many people fixated on 7000 - 8000m peaks, there might be a batch of relatively small ones still open for first ascents?
I have some maps of the Khumbu and Langtang Himal and there are plenty of peaks that are just known by an altitude; no name. Would this be any indication of their unclimbedness?

It would be pretty interesting to see if it is possible to organise a small, lightweight alpine style expedition to the Himalayas and climb something new. Doesn't have to be difficult, just lots of fun.

Any thoughts?



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Damien Gildea

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by Damien Gildea » Wed May 07, 2008 12:06 am


Langtang (and the Khumbu & Annapurna areas) are pretty much climbed out, having had years of both authorised and unauthorised ascents. Lots of pirate climbing done in the Langtang (mea culpa).

The best area in Nepal for virgin peaks is the Mustang area, north of Jomsom. This was closed off to westerners for years but opened a few years back. Several Japanese teams have been in there for FAs and at least two US teams. There are no difficult spectacular peaks but lots of unclimbed peaks around 6000-6300m. Look at the area west of the valley for the most choice. Season is May or Sept - it's further north and drier than most of Nepal.

In Nepal now the peak fees have just been cut substantially and for peaks below 6500m even though you pay a fee you don't have to pay for/have an LO, which saves a lot of money and hassle.


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