Aconcagua-South Face

Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
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melindahalasz

 
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Aconcagua-South Face

by melindahalasz » Thu Jan 05, 2006 7:57 pm

Hi all!

Could you help me?

I need some infotmation about the Argentine or Pasic route on the South Wall of Aconcagua.

Thanks!

Melinda

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Alpinist

 
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Re: Aconcagua-South Face

by Alpinist » Thu Jan 05, 2006 8:52 pm

You might get a more specific response if you ask specific questions.

Did you check the <A HREF="http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/2247/object_id/11">Argentine route description</A> on SP...?

You should also consider getting <A HREF="http://www.summitpost.org/show/book_query.pl/object_id/11/sort_by/submission_date">Secor's guidebook</A>. He devotes a chapter to the South Face. I also have Jim Ryan's guidebook, but he does not even mention the South Face.

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melindahalasz

 
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Re: Aconcagua-South Face

by melindahalasz » Thu Jan 05, 2006 9:29 pm

Hi! Thanks for your suggestions.
I've already checked the description on SP but it's an other Argentine route: it's situated on the East glacier.
And I'm interested in climbing the Argentine route of South Wall, also called Pasic route.
I would welcome any advice with open arms!

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Corax

 
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Re: Aconcagua-South Face

by Corax » Fri Jan 06, 2006 3:58 am

<a href=http://7summits.com/aconcagua/routes/f05final.jpg>Here are all the routes on the south face.</a> You're talking about number 14 right?

When do you intend to climb?
Are we talking this season?
I'm in Argentina right now. Looking for interesting options.
It's dangerous to be right when the government is wrong. Voltaire

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melindahalasz

 
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Re: Aconcagua-South Face

by melindahalasz » Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:54 am

Exactly!!!
I'm interested in climbing the route No.14, on the right side of the South face next January or February. (Unfortunately, I had to postpone my trip to next year, - I need more money.)

Anyway, my plan: 3-4 weeks preacclimatization in the Chilean Andes (ice and mixed routes) then climbing Aconcagua.

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Corax

 
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Re: Aconcagua-South Face

by Corax » Fri Jan 06, 2006 1:41 pm

In a way I think it may be good your trip got postponed as the south face looked bad this year. I was there early in the season and it held lots of snow and some very bad serac bands, which I can't recall seeing last season. There has been loads of snow in Los Andes and I think it'll take time for the "bad stuff" to come down.

I'll go back to Aco soon and if the weather is nice I can try to take some more specific photos of that route.
It's dangerous to be right when the government is wrong. Voltaire

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melindahalasz

 
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Re: Aconcagua-South Face

by melindahalasz » Fri Jan 06, 2006 1:59 pm

Hi Corax!

Thank you so much!!!

And what is your opinion? Is it better to climb this face in winter season?

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Corax

 
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Re: Aconcagua-South Face

by Corax » Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:29 pm

I'm not so well informed about the climbing conditions in winter time on Aco. I saw a slide show here in Mendoza about a winter climb, but that was on the normal route. It seemed like a really nice thing to do, even if the conditions at times were hard and the avalanche danger was huge in some parts. My <i>guess</i> is, the south face in winter is an extremely rough project and further that the avalanche danger is enormous.
It's dangerous to be right when the government is wrong. Voltaire

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ElCapitanKoolAid

 
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Re: Aconcagua-South Face

by ElCapitanKoolAid » Thu Feb 02, 2006 4:36 am

As far as I know only two guys have climbed the Messner route in winter: both ended heavily frostbitten.

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Corax

 
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by Corax » Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:53 pm

Melinda, are you still interested in attempting a route on the south face on Aconcauga?
Anyone else?

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SophiaClimbs

 
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by SophiaClimbs » Tue Oct 24, 2006 8:44 pm

When?

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Corax

 
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by Corax » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:24 pm

You have mail SophiaClimbs.


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