Guides on Rainier

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
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gwave47

 
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Guides on Rainier

by gwave47 » Wed Sep 09, 2009 3:38 pm

Does anybody have any guide recommendations? Has anyone ever climbed Rainier with Alpine Ascents. I would like to go with them if they are highly recommended since they leave out of Seattle. I have family in Seattle so this would save me the cost of a hotel and rental car. Let me know! Thanks!

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muper

 
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by muper » Wed Sep 09, 2009 3:52 pm

just find a partner on summitpost and go without a guide to save money and have more adventure

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ExcitableBoy

 
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by ExcitableBoy » Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:32 pm

Any of the guide services who guide Rainier will do a fine job.

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lcarreau

 
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by lcarreau » Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:41 pm

What you're doing is making an investment in yourself and your future by hiring a guide.

Afterward, you can carry what you learned on to your own adventures and experiences.

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surgent

 
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by surgent » Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:16 pm

Be sure they go to the top (Columbia Crest), not just the crater rim.

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EverydayExplorer

 
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by EverydayExplorer » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:01 pm

This may not be what you are looking for but like lcarreau said this is an investment in yourself. Rather than hiring a guide for Rainier, a better investment would be to take something like AAI's Alpinism I course. You'll learn most of the skills necessary to take yourself up Rainier but more importantly you'll learn how to be more of a climber and less of a client. That said there is absolutely nothing wrong with being guided up Rainier. I haven't had any experience with RMI but I was hanging out with an IMG guide at Muir the other day and while I'd be more than fine tying in with him, I didn't get that overwhelming "he's a pro" feeling. Just my two cents.

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nickkarl

 
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by nickkarl » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:24 pm

I went with RMI last year and the trip was fantastic. I would highly recommend their service. Chad P. was the lead guide and his instruction was great! There was a good snow school day then the next day we hiked to Camp Muir then the following day we summited. Its a good way to build skills before heading out on your own.

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MichaelJ

 
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by MichaelJ » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:25 pm

I have a good friend who guides for AAI whom I do a lot of personal climbing with, plus I know a number of their other guides. All of them seem pretty on the ball. If I were looking for a guide, my friend would be the ideal: a solid, experienced, safe climber.

As for going to the crater rim vs. the summit, that's up to the clients.

I wouldn't worry about the guides: it's the other clients you have to worry about--but have no control over. They're the ones who'll jack things up for you.

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bird

 
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by bird » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:55 pm

EverydayExplorer wrote:This may not be what you are looking for but like lcarreau said this is an investment in yourself. Rather than hiring a guide for Rainier, a better investment would be to take something like AAI's Alpinism I course. You'll learn most of the skills necessary to take yourself up Rainier but more importantly you'll learn how to be more of a climber and less of a client. That said there is absolutely nothing wrong with being guided up Rainier. I haven't had any experience with RMI but I was hanging out with an IMG guide at Muir the other day and while I'd be more than fine tying in with him, I didn't get that overwhelming "he's a pro" feeling. Just my two cents.

This is good advice. I took AAI (AmAlpInstitute) course several years ago, and then attempted Rainier with them (snowed off). After that, i felt reasonably comfortable on Glaciers and have summit Rainier twice w/o guides. If your goal is to get up Rainier, any of them will do. If your goal is to expand your climbing skills and become a self sufficient mountaineer, then a course would be better. Totally up to you. Either way, climb safe, have fun.

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lcarreau

 
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by lcarreau » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:26 pm

Several ways to go, and there's nothing wrong with that.

RMI seems to be a reasonable choice. It was once headed by Lou Whittiker, and he was by
all means professional.

There's a very thin line between making it "professional" and just having fun.

Perhaps you can do both ???

Good luck.

:)

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welle

 
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by welle » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:41 pm

Depends on what you would prefer - sleeping at 10,000 feet in a hut or at 11,000 feet in a tent on a summit eve. Both have cons and pros. It is a gross over-generalization I know, and I haven't been guided by any of the outfits, but RMI gave me an impression of cattle-herding assembly line like approach. Guides based out of Ingraham flats (AAI or IMG?) seemed nicer and gentler with their clients...

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bird

 
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by bird » Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:34 am

welle wrote:Depends on what you would prefer - sleeping at 10,000 feet in a hut or at 11,000 feet in a tent on a summit eve. Both have cons and pros. It is a gross over-generalization I know, and I haven't been guided by any of the outfits, but RMI gave me an impression of cattle-herding assembly line like approach. Guides based out of Ingraham flats (AAI or IMG?) seemed nicer and gentler with their clients...

My impression as well.

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Outside

 
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by Outside » Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:58 am

I have summited Rainier twice with RMI. Once as a rookie climber in 1989 with Eric Simonson as the lead guide (now an owner of IMG and a very impressive climbing resume' ). It was a great trip. A full day of instruction was inlcuded and the individual guides were fun to be around but focused and prepared. The second trip was a Winter Expedition Seminar; a 7 night adventure that included a Kautz glacier summit. The guides for that trip were Olivia Cussen and Rob Curran. Olivia was the third US woman, back in 2008, to achieve full IFMGA certification. They were fun to be with but serious as a heart attack when it comes to climbing instruction and your safety. The food was very good. The off-color jokes were even better. They are both still working there. RMI has been doing this for as long as commericial guides have been on the mountain. (about 40 years +/-) The others only a few years. The Whittakers', Ed Viesturs, Dave Hahn, Joe Horisey, are the names associated with this company. Need I say more? While they are likely all talented, safe and smart, I can tell you that no other company has RMI's experience on Rainier. I am now qualified to climb on Rainier without the help of RMI but they were a big part of helping me find that freedom. (This is not a commercial post, just my honest feedback)

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jonmeek16

 
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RMI

by jonmeek16 » Thu Sep 10, 2009 3:14 am

I went with RMI this year and had a great trip.

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lcarreau

 
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by lcarreau » Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:58 am

RMI Rocks !!!


(This is not a commercial).

:lol:

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