Europe Alpine Climbing Guidebook

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Europe. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Europe Climbing Partners section.
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A-dog

 
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Europe Alpine Climbing Guidebook

by A-dog » Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:24 am

This may be a bit too broad of a subject, but does anybody know of a good guidebook that lists out the more famous alpine ice and rock climbs throughout the Alps? Im kind of looking for a book similar to the "50 classic alpine climbs of north america" kind of book (or whatever that book was titled). If what I am looking for is too general of an are, I am specifically looking at alpine climbing in the countries of Austria, Switzerland, and France. Any recommendations on popular guidebooks that any of you guys and girls use will be greatly appreciated. I have tried doing internet searches for books of this sort without much success.

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nattfodd

 
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by nattfodd » Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:37 am

For the Mont-Blanc range, the reference is Rebuffat's book, "the 100 finest routes". It is often given in the same breath than the 50 classic alpine in north america. I am not aware of similar books for other European ranges.

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barrys

 
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by barrys » Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:23 am

'Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes' by Richard Goedeke is packed full of routes for all abilities, though using height as a filter it misses out on great places like La Meije, Ailefroide, Arolla, Grossglockner and the Eiger. Still a very useful book though.

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Gilles

 
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by Gilles » Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:12 am

The 'Glenat'-series offers some excellent (inspiration-)books. A reference for some classic climbs in the Mont-Blanc range (F-D): 'Sommets du Mont-Blanc, Les plus belles courses de F à D' by Jean-Louis Laroche and Florence Lelong and 'Ascensions au pays du Mont-Blanc' by the same authors. In the same series you also have books with classic climbs in Switserland, Ecrins, Pyrénées,... The above mentioned top 100 from good old Gaston Rebuffat is also a great book (a must read classic of mountaineering literature!!!). The reference for rock-climbing in the Mont-Blanc area: 'Mont Blanc range topo' volume 1 and 2 by Michel Piola (although these books are hard to find these days). The reference for snow, ice and mixed climbing in the Mont Blanc area: 'Snow, ice and mixed' volume 1 and 2 by Francois Damilano.

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Fred Spicker

 
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by Fred Spicker » Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:02 am

There was a series of the "100 Finest Routes" books.

The Mt. Blanc book was the only one translated into English. The others are in German and I think Italian.

There are also books for the Berner Oberland, the Wallis, the Bernina / Bergell / Engadin, and two for the Dolomites (East and West).

Unfortunately, they are out of print, but can be found at used book outlets.

Here are several:

http://www.buchfreund.de/productListing ... d=38820999

http://www.amazon.de/Bernina-Bergell-En ... 3765421227

http://www.amazon.de/Walliser-Alpen-Die ... 3765421243

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Krumme

 
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by Krumme » Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:05 am

Hi
There are a few good books in English.
Depends on where you wanna climb

Mont blanc Area (Base Camp Chamonix)
as mention: the Mont Blanc massif 100 finest
also:
- The Mont Blanc Range, Classic snow, Ice and Miced Climbs (like 100 finest but with easier routes) from F to D written by Jean-Louis Laroche ISBN: 978-0-89732-651-3
- Snow, Ice and mixed vol 1 and 2 by Francios Damilano ISBN: 2-9521881-2-2 and 2-9521881-4-9

for other areas of the Alps and for 4000m peaks
-The alpine 4000m Peaks by classic routes: ISBN 1-898573-56-5
- The 4000m peaks of the alps: ISBN: 978-0900523663

lots of good reading
Enjoy
-Kasper

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Sebastian Hamm

 
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by Sebastian Hamm » Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:33 pm

4.000 m peaks (english):
http://www.amazon.de/Alpine-4000m-Peaks-Classic-Routes/dp/0897325591/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books-intl-de&qid=1253297929&sr=8-2-catcorr

Mont-Blanc-Area; The first 3 books of Francois Damilano are very good. From easy walks to hard climbs (english):
http://www.montagnelibrairie.com/epages/ea6214.sf/fr_FR/?ObjectPath=/Shops/ea6214/Categories/COLLECTIONS/JMEDITIONS

The next two ones are what you are looking for: Coffee-table books:

Best of Western Alps (german):
http://www.amazon.de/Hochtouren-Westalpen-Eistouren-zwischen-Selection/dp/3763330283/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1253298128&sr=1-1-spell
Sample: http://www.rother.de/pdf/3763330283_tour.pdf
Mountains: http://www.rother.de/pdf/3763330283_inhalt.pdf
MAP: http://www.rother.de/pdf/_3763330283_joker.pdf

Best of Eastern Alps (german):
http://www.amazon.de/Hochtouren-Ostalpen-Eistouren-zwischen-Bernina/dp/3763330100/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1253298077&sr=8-1-catcorr
Sample: http://www.rother.de/pdf/3763330100_tour.pdf
Mountains: http://www.rother.de/pdf/3763330100_inhalt.pdf

-----------
Best of ice/snow-climbing Eastern-Alps (german):
http://www.amazon.de/Firn-Eisklettern-Ostalpen-Andreas-Jentzsch/dp/3950092005/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1253298077&sr=8-3-catcorr

At http://www.rother.de you will find every guide book of every region in the Alps. But almost on german. !!! IF YOU CLICK ON THE BRITISH FLAG YOU WILL SEE ONLY THE BOOKS IN ENGLISH!!!

Click: KATALOG >> AV-FÜHRER or SAC-FÜHRER >> CLUBFÜHRER

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JackCarr

 
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by JackCarr » Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:21 pm

I have the Alpine Club's official guidebooks for the Valais East, Valais West, Bernese Oberland (not yet got round to buying Mont Blanc Massif I and II).

They're small, but very informative and aren't limited to just 4000er's (I also have a few of them!). Definitely worth buying.

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JackCarr

 
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by JackCarr » Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:26 pm

I mean the British Alpine Club of course.

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Charles

 
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by Charles » Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:41 pm

Good suggestions here, I would also add from the publishing house Rother their good overviews: Ostalpen, covers Bernina to Tauern and Westalpen Volume 1 covers Tödi to Grand Combin (volume 2 has not yet been released and I would assume covers Mont Blanc et al).
They´re in German but they have useful tour maps, pictures and follow the usual grading system.

Cheers

Charles

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Sebastian Hamm

 
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by Sebastian Hamm » Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:52 pm

charles wrote:Good suggestions here, I would also add from the publishing house Rother their good overviews: Ostalpen, covers Bernina to Tauern and Westalpen Volume 1 covers Tödi to Grand Combin (volume 2 has not yet been released and I would assume covers Mont Blanc et al).
They´re in German but they have useful tour maps, pictures and follow the usual grading system.

Cheers

Charles


Hi Charles,
These two books I have already suggested "Best of eastern Alps"...
I love these two books. Hope they are starting Western Alps Part 2 more quickly than the first part.

Cheers
Sebastian


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