Devil's Lake and Apex Adventure

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Heartland of the America. Hey, this includes Arkansas. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Midwest US Climbing Partners section.
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woodsxc

 
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Devil's Lake and Apex Adventure

by woodsxc » Fri Sep 18, 2009 3:08 pm

I'll be at DL September 25-27 with my scout troop. We're using Apex Adventure guides. Anybody here work for Apex or know someone who does?

Any of you guys going to be climbing that weekend? If so, hopefully we'll cross paths.

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drjohnso1182

 
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by drjohnso1182 » Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:03 am

I hope you get some good weather this weekend; the forecast's not looking very good.

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woodsxc

 
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by woodsxc » Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:41 pm

drjohnso1182 wrote:I hope you get some good weather this weekend; the forecast's not looking very good.


Weather was perfect!!! Sunny and dry the whole time. It just started to drizzle as we pulled out on Sunday afternoon.

I learned a ton about setting anchors. I set a tricam (passive, not active) and the guide declared one of my stoppers to be a "bomber set, dude". As far as climbing, I did OK. I nailed a couple 5.6-5.8 routes and took a solid half hour straight on belay before I topped out the 5.9. Later in the afternoon, I tried a 5.10 face climb. I forget the name, but it's the one a footwall on West Bluff that runs between two cracks but the cracks are off limits (Oil Slick maybe?). I failed spectacularly (didn't get more than about 20 feet up), but was pleased that I did a few moves without cheating.

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aedwards

 
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by aedwards » Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:02 pm

woodsxc wrote:
drjohnso1182 wrote:I hope you get some good weather this weekend; the forecast's not looking very good.


Weather was perfect!!! Sunny and dry the whole time. It just started to drizzle as we pulled out on Sunday afternoon.

I learned a ton about setting anchors. I set a tricam (passive, not active) and the guide declared one of my stoppers to be a "bomber set, dude". As far as climbing, I did OK. I nailed a couple 5.6-5.8 routes and took a solid half hour straight on belay before I topped out the 5.9. Later in the afternoon, I tried a 5.10 face climb. I forget the name, but it's the one a footwall on West Bluff that runs between two cracks but the cracks are off limits (Oil Slick maybe?). I failed spectacularly (didn't get more than about 20 feet up), but was pleased that I did a few moves without cheating.


Sound like you did pretty well. Right on!

8)

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drjohnso1182

 
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by drjohnso1182 » Wed Sep 30, 2009 1:18 am

woodsxc wrote:
drjohnso1182 wrote:I hope you get some good weather this weekend; the forecast's not looking very good.


Weather was perfect!!! Sunny and dry the whole time. It just started to drizzle as we pulled out on Sunday afternoon.

I learned a ton about setting anchors. I set a tricam (passive, not active) and the guide declared one of my stoppers to be a "bomber set, dude". As far as climbing, I did OK. I nailed a couple 5.6-5.8 routes and took a solid half hour straight on belay before I topped out the 5.9. Later in the afternoon, I tried a 5.10 face climb. I forget the name, but it's the one a footwall on West Bluff that runs between two cracks but the cracks are off limits (Oil Slick maybe?). I failed spectacularly (didn't get more than about 20 feet up), but was pleased that I did a few moves without cheating.

Good stuff


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