Hi, I have been bitten by the mountain bug and am planning to go to Mexico to Climb Iztaccihuatl and Orizaba and hopefully La Malinche and if time permits Nevado de Toluca. I am rather new to this forum community but find it an awesome resource already!

I am an avid mountain biker (and occasional road biker) I have participated in a few XC Racing seasons and also in several 12h and 24h events. Right now im in not so good a shape due to injury (deep bruised thigh) but I am recovering nicely and getting on the bike (stationary) again. I want to be ready and in shape to climb by december. I have very little climbing experience and have only hiked onced around the Mt Washington area when I was much younger and the local rainforest (3-4 times a month 5-8 mile day hikes with 1800-2200 ft elev. gains). I have been to the Colorado Rockies several times to go skiing and have not been adversely affected by altitude (highest I have been is Breckenridge Peak 8/9, 13,000 ft +-).

I dont have a ton of spare cash but have some gear. I want to know what I might take, leave behind and what I need to or should buy in regards to clothing (technical climbing gear and helmet will be rented in the country):

My current gear:

1 pair Vasque Zephyr II Hiking boots (Gore-tex), leather/fabric waterproof boots. Not too flexy

1 waterproof/insulated ski jacket with hood
1 pair waterproof/insulated aki pants (nice with integrated "gaiters" underneath)
1 Outdoor Research Credo Softshell Jacket
1 North Face Fleece jacket (pretty thick with underarm zips for vent.)
1 waterproof 3 layer shell (taped/sealed, nice waterproof zips, its a tad too stiff but roomy for layers underneath)
1 pair waterproof (gore-tex) insulated pants with full side zippers
2 pair of PolarMax long underwear

I am thinking of taking the Shell, the Fleece and the Credo Softshell and the long underwear. I am purchasing a set of softshell pants + taking my warm weather hiking pants and in case of cold conditions am planning to take my gore-tex insulated full zip pants.

I have never used a 4 layer system (baselayer>fleece>softshell>shell) and dont know if its necessary for Mexico since from what I have read it is only cold on the dark hours of summit day. I mean while skiing in Breckenridge I wore My ski jacket over baselayer and long sleeve t shirt and I was fine on sunny days even on the summit (25-30deg and windy)

I was thinking of reducing the nuber of pieces and just take just the Credo Softshell, my base layers and the ski jacket (for summit days) and the full zip pants I mentioned (ski pants have no full zip so they stay at home) + softshell and hiking pants.

what do you think?

Also, I am only taking my Vasque boots and a pair of low/mid light hi-tec hikers. I am planning to strap on crampons to the Vasque's since from what I have read, only on the Orizaba summit attempt (the last 1500-2000ft) do some people feel the need to lug plastic boots.

Regarding other gear:

I am shopping for a 20 or 30 deg. bag also. I dont want to have to buy another backpack, my current backpack is 38L . I plan on staying in hotels and in the huts at all times. (taking ready to eat food, no cooking in the field)

Most Gear lists from US and International Guide Companies are huge for the Mexican Volcanoes trip. Plastic boots, gaiters, gore tex shells etc etc.

sneakyracer wrote:
1 pair Vasque Zephyr II Hiking boots (Gore-tex), leather/fabric waterproof boots. Not too flexy

1 waterproof/insulated ski jacket with hood
1 pair waterproof/insulated aki pants (nice with integrated "gaiters" underneath)
1 Outdoor Research Credo Softshell Jacket
1 North Face Fleece jacket (pretty thick with underarm zips for vent.)
1 waterproof 3 layer shell (taped/sealed, nice waterproof zips, its a tad too stiff but roomy for layers underneath)
1 pair waterproof (gore-tex) insulated pants with full side zippers
2 pair of PolarMax long underwear

I am thinking of taking the Shell, the Fleece and the Credo Softshell and the long underwear. I am purchasing a set of softshell pants + taking my warm weather hiking pants and in case of cold conditions am planning to take my gore-tex insulated full zip pants.

I have never used a 4 layer system (baselayer>fleece>softshell>shell) and dont know if its necessary for Mexico since from what I have read it is only cold on the dark hours of summit day. I mean while skiing in Breckenridge I wore My ski jacket over baselayer and long sleeve t shirt and I was fine on sunny days even on the summit (25-30deg and windy)

I was thinking of reducing the nuber of pieces and just take just the Credo Softshell, my base layers and the ski jacket (for summit days) and the full zip pants I mentioned (ski pants have no full zip so they stay at home) + softshell and hiking pants.

what do you think?

Also, I am only taking my Vasque boots and a pair of low/mid light hi-tec hikers. I am planning to strap on crampons to the Vasque's since from what I have read, only on the Orizaba summit attempt (the last 1500-2000ft) do some people feel the need to lug plastic boots.

Regarding other gear:

I am shopping for a 20 or 30 deg. bag also. I dont want to have to buy another backpack, my current backpack is 38L . I plan on staying in hotels and in the huts at all times. (taking ready to eat food, no cooking in the field)

Most Gear lists from US and International Guide Companies are huge for the Mexican Volcanoes trip. Plastic boots, gaiters, gore tex shells etc etc.

For bottoms, your base layer, softshell, full zip plan will work.
For tops, baselayer, fleece, softshell, ski jacket should work as well. You could leave the fleece at home, but for the 15oz, you might as well bring it. It was in the teens on my summit day, but at 18k, it feels much colder.
Your boots sound like the minimum, you don't need plastics, but make sure you have warm dry socks and pack some chemical heaters just in case.
Have fun.

Hi:
While I was on Orizaba, I used the following:
1 - On the top, a base layer - fleece - hard shell (It was stupid to forget the soft shell at home. In case I had it, would've used it).
2 - Bottom - Base Layer - Waterproof Pants (REI Brand). It was enough. When it got hot, open the side zippers, and you should be fine.
A few words of caution though:
- I climbed with my partner, with whom I have summitted a similarly high peak in the Himalayas, but still, his body didn't adjust to the altitude. With constant headache, and a loss of appetite, he headed back to BC from C2, while I went solo.
- On the second camp, it got cloudy, and the temperature dropped at night. I had a down jacket (Cloudveil) which really helped.
- A 20 deg bag should be ok, but you might want to carry a sleeping bag liner, which would add a few more degrees. I had a Marmot 15 deg rated bag.
- On the summit attempt, although I used inners + TNF gloves, my fingers were cold. So much so that it prevented me from clicking shots of the most beautiful sunrise I had ever seen in my lifetime.
- While attempting the summit, keep your goggles close (cheast pocket etc.). Keep two bottles in your chest pockets, so that they don't freeze. My camelbak piped water froze.
- While I was descending, clouds started coming in, real fast. Although I trust my direction sense, which finally led me back to camp, it would've helped having a compass, and be able to read it as well.
- Somewhere near the summit, the slope steepens (depends from where you are climbing). So, it won't hurt getting roped up with your partner, although there are no dangers of crevasses or any bergschrunds.
- As mentioned by fellow SP-er's, if on day 1 you reach the hut, take a day to acclamatize. If you feel good, go and make camp 2. Next day, again acclamatize. And the following day, go for the summit.

All the very best for your climb !

Regards,
Samarth.

I was hoping to take a quick trip and try out Itza over New Year's. I have all my gear already. I just need to put it to use.

We stayed at the "goverment" camp and summited Malinche prior. Seemed to work well into our plans.

Hi, my plan is to arrive in Mex City on day 1 and sleep there in a decent hotel, eat nice that night too, the next day I will travel to Amecameca, get some food and any gear I need during the day and stay there that night. During the third day I will go to altomozi? lodge in itza an hike to the trail head and a bit beyond to check things out. On the 4th day I will try and summit Itza and head to Reyes or Limon's place to prepare for Orizaba. If I am too exhausted I will just head down to Amecameca to sleep that night and then on the 5th day head to Piedra Grande after getting more food and water. On the 6th day I will go to the Glacier if I can and then on the 7th day summit and go down to Reyes/Limon's place or the city and leave on the 8th. If I can stay for more days I might add Malinche.

I want to go to Izta too. If I was doing Orizaba primarily then I will skip Izta and just do a day hike La Malinche to get ready for the climb. But Izta looks like a lot of fun. I though about sleeping in the hut (grupo de los cien) for a shorter summit day and to really enjoy the wonderful ridge and traverses high on Izta but the hut seems filthy and carrying water all the way up there seems a real grind.

Another alternative on Itza seems to be the Ayoloco Glacier route, wow looks beautiful also and less crowded. There is a hut on that route but I dont know if I want to count on it. I dont want to carry a tent. Would need more updated info. Besides not having a tent I also wont have a stove or cooking gear. I am going light. I will have to carry the water though which might be tough but that will be gone on summit day and on the descent. As far as food, I am taking power bars, sandwiches (some tortillas), dry fruit and nuts and some beef jerky and some powdered sports drink mix. I mean, I want to hike up there during the day and get there in the afternoon, sleep a bit and summit in the early morning and get down.

Seems nicer than heading out of the altsomozi? cabin at 1am for a long long walk to and up the mountain. By the time I get to the good part beyond the grupo de los cien hut I will be very tired.

I might have to go solo since I cant find any partners in crime. I have some friends in mex which might meet me for the Izta climb but dont know for Orizaba, I might have to hire a guide for the summit day (my budget is low however).

As you can see I am still pondering the diferent options !

While I hear that Reyes or Limon are great guys to go hire if you need a guide. It comes at a price.

If your looking for a ride and not a guide the much cheaper alternative is Senor Gerar. At less than half the price. You get a night stay at his hotel which is spartan but clean with hot water and a t.v. to watch the always entertaining Mexican broadcasting. A dependable ride and a good conversation on the way up, that is if you speak Spanish. His English is not so good. His hotel is also right down the street from a small market, the Zocalo, and bus station. If your timing is right Tlachichuca's large street market is on sunday right outside his hotel.

Don't get me wrong Senor Reyes will treat you right. He has a great set-up and his guides are great from what I hear. But if you don't go solo Senor Gerar is the way to go.

I learned of him when I arrived in Tlachichuca. A couple of Canadian's were just leaving and recommended him over the others. They had used his services numerous times before and were always very satisfied.

Hi, thx for the advice! Spanish is my first language so I probably can figure a lot of things out while I am there but I want to have as much planned as possible before heading to Mex.

I am a tad scared to go solo on the Orizaba. Huge Mountain with several dangerous places like the Labrynth and of course the Glacier. I am kinda used to looking for the best line up and down mountains due to my extensive mountain biking experience but my very limited hiking/trekking experience kinda makes me think. I do have good skiing experience in high altitudes (Vail, Breckenridge, Keystone), mostly lift served but on Breck I hiked up a bit to get to Peak 8 and 9. Never had an issue with staying at 8-9k and skiing up to 12-13k for a week or 2 as long as I stay in Denver for a night before heading up. I hope the high altitude doesnt get to me too bad since in Mex I will go higher than ever before (that is kinda the idea isnt it!). The route finding on Izta doesnt worry me too bad due to the ammount of people that use it except If I choose the much less travelled Ayoloco route. So basically If I need a Guide is for the summit days only.

rmick25 wrote:While I hear that Reyes or Limon are great guys to go hire if you need a guide. It comes at a price.

If your looking for a ride and not a guide the much cheaper alternative is Senor Gerar. At less than half the price. You get a night stay at his hotel which is spartan but clean with hot water and a t.v. to watch the always entertaining Mexican broadcasting. A dependable ride and a good conversation on the way up, that is if you speak Spanish. His English is not so good. His hotel is also right down the street from a small market, the Zocalo, and bus station. If your timing is right Tlachichuca's large street market is on sunday right outside his hotel.

Don't get me wrong Senor Reyes will treat you right. He has a great set-up and his guides are great from what I hear. But if you don't go solo Senor Gerar is the way to go.

I learned of him when I arrived in Tlachichuca. A couple of Canadian's were just leaving and recommended him over the others. They had used his services numerous times before and were always very satisfied.

What do you guys think the price should be if I try to negotiate someone to come up the day after I leave, look for my rental vehicle, and come rescue us if he finds it?

PS - I have no comment on your gear list.
A belaclava may make summit day a lot more comfortable.
The other stuff you may not need, depending on your support staff.

hey sneaky,

You got certain dates in mind for your trip out there? I take it you are from CO too? I might have plans to meet up with some other SP'ers but still not confirmed dates or details yet so trying to keep options open. Im looking at hitting Izta as well.

Hi, im still fine tuning my gear plans, here is what I have, or have purchased and am planning on taking to Mexico:

Head:

1 Helmet (debated whether to take on or not but decided its worth it): Either a BD or C.A.M.P. climbing helmet.
1 Wool "beanie", somewhat tight fitting to be able to use it under helmet.
1 Fleece neck gaiter (I love those things, very effective and cheap)

Torso:

1 single layer PolarMax crew long underwear top (100% Acclimate Polyester, cheap and effective)
1 double layer PolarMax crew long underwear top (100% Acclimate Polyester, cheap and effective, a bit thicker but stil thing, tight fitting and strechy)
1 Marmot Men's Power Stretch Full Zip Jacket (looks nice, might use it alone or over a poly t shirt or over the polarmax's, most likely will spend a lot of time with this garment on as outermost layer)
1 Outdoor Research Credo Softshell Jacket (if it gets colder / snowy and or windy this goes on)
1 Marmot Mica Jacket (for rain/sleet or extra wind/snow protection, very very light, saved me space in my bag)
1 fleece jacket (for use at higher camps and maybe as a midlayer if it gets really cold)

Legs:

several sport boxer briefs
1 single layer PolarMax bottoms
1 double layer PolarMax bottoms
1 Mountain Hardwear Canyon pants (awesome light but tough hiking pant, quick drying)
1 Mountain Hardwear Navigation pants (awesome softshell pants for higher up on the mountains)
1 llbean gore-tex + synthetic insulated full zip pants (if it gets really cold)

Feet:

1 pair Hi-tech low hikers
1 pair Vasque Zephyr II Goretex heavy duty backpacking boots (for the high mountains and strap on crampons)
1 crampons (havent decided which)
several pairs of smartwool socks with liners (mounteneering and ski socks), some lighter hiking socks for lower hikes and walks.

Sleeping:

Might take a cheap tent to sleep in instead of the huts.
lafuma extreme 1500 20deg. synth. bag (3lb-5oz) cost only $87!

Pack:

Osprey Atmos 35 (38L) backpack
+ a large duffel.

Misc.:

1 3L insulated camelbak reservoir
2 1L Nalgenes with insulating jackets (OR's)

1 Piolet (probably rent it there)

1 pair of Black Diamond Trail hiking poles (have them, love those things!)

Food, local food, I love Mexican food. Will take prepared meals, probably wont cook while im on the mountains.

I might leave behind the Insulated pants and most likely the ski jacket. I am trusting the layering system I depicted above. Only time I expect to be a bit cold is during the pre-dawn hours of the Orizaba Climb, I wan to hit the glacier during the sunrise so the Labrynth might be cold. On Itza it should be warm on the pre-dawn hours of the climb because its lower on the Mountain and more sheltered.

Your gear list is fine. If you have any specific gear questions feel free to PM/email me. Unless you get a freak storm the temps are not too bad. Shell and puffy jackets are key. Cheers!

Haliku wrote:Your gear list is fine. If you have any specific gear questions feel free to PM/email me. Unless you get a freak storm the temps are not too bad. Shell and puffy jackets are key. Cheers!

Thanks!

Well, I dont have a puffy jacket just a ski jacket that I didnt plan on taking. Its decent, with a hood, synthetic insulation, powder skirt and sealed/taped seams (so far it has been waterproof but I have only used it in colder snowy weather). Its kinda bulky to pack and kinda warm. I used it in Colorado (Breckenridge) on the high alpine bowls on a few sunny days, it was windy but in the high 20's and I only had the polar max and a medium thickness cotton long sleeve shirt underneath and I was fine even when on the lifts.

I figured with a double layer PolarMax crew, the Marmot Power Stretch and the OR Softshell Im gonna be quite warm out there, If windy I add the Marmot Mica shell and I should be good to go down to the 10's. In case i gets colder I guess the fleece should do the trick.

I kinda substituted the ski jacket with the OR Credo softshell and extra layers. I wish I could test my clothing in cold weather before goin but I live in the tropics so unless I go inside a commercial freezer there is no way jajaja. I can really test rain gear though!