Big Routes in the Big Horns

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Northern Rockies. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Northern Rockies Climbing Partners section.
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Guyzo

 
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Re: Big Routes in the Big Horns

by Guyzo » Thu Oct 08, 2009 6:30 pm

mikemcneil wrote:I tried to post this yesterday on the general forum but screwed it up. So here I go again. Ihave done some climbing in the Chill Lake Cirque on Big Horn Mountain in the Big Horns. Kieth Noback and I ended up doing two 1000+ft. mixed routes with full water ice pitches in the middle of both. These routes were done in middle to late May which is quite late for water ice in the area. I had so much fun I would love to learn about other good routes in the area as there seems to be so many walls with so little information out there.
There was a guidebook that I had seen about 15 years ago with some pretty rich history, but I have never seen it again. I also keep running into stories of fairly accomplished mountaineers doing routes there but with few details. I know climbers such as Paul Piana and David Roberts have put up routes in the area and I am just looking for information to go out do more. I know people are worried about the place getting over-run, but with aproches to the walls in the area of10+ miles and much of it trailless bush wacking above 10,000ft I think our secret is safe. Thanks for any info in advance. Mike


Where is the "Big Horn Mountain"?

Just curious. :wink:

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Thu Oct 08, 2009 8:03 pm

mikemcneil wrote:Big Horn Mountain is the Big Horn Mountains in Wyoming it has some fairly substantial walls on two sides of the Peak that top out a few hundred feet below th e12,000+ft. summit.


Thanks,

Is there an SP page?

:wink:

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musicman82

 
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by musicman82 » Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:22 pm

Do you mean Bighorn Peak (12,324 feet)?

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jharrwyo

 
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by jharrwyo » Fri Oct 09, 2009 4:11 am

There is some info in the American Alpine Journal's archives. It takes some patience and time scanning but type in CLoud Peak Wilderness and thre is some info. It talks of routes around CLoud and sourrounding peaks. There are some accounts back in the 30's of the first recorded explorartions as well as climbing info.. I too have climbed with Noback up there and that is some great country. Good luck and if you're looking for a kinda local partner let me know.

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jharrwyo

 
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by jharrwyo » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:26 am

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/aajse ... zoom_and=1

This is just one example that I could pull up. It is in the index but if you click the index you can scroll down through each state till you get to wyoming. All I did was type in bighorn mountains and thats what it came up with. This link is index #5 so hope this helps.

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jharrwyo

 
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by jharrwyo » Mon Oct 19, 2009 3:09 am

i can read the entire article.

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Rocker Paully

 
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by Rocker Paully » Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:28 pm

Here's a new page on a fairly big route in the Big Horns, this mountain has tons of potential still!

http://www.summitpost.org/route/551420/Southwest-Face-Right.html

Woolsey, The Merlon, Cloud, Hallelujah, and any of the alpine canyons leading to Black Tooth have big alpine walls that can be climbed and have FA potential


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