Dingus Milktoast wrote:

fatdad wrote:Lots of other stuff at that level, especially at Manure Pile, but I'm just blanking right now.

Actually not so much. Yosemite has very little quality to offer the sub-5.8 leader.

That's why the same beginner routes get mentioned over and over. There's only a handful worth recommending.

DMT

By lots, I meant a few other routes like Jump for Joy, C.S. Concerto, etc. Not a ton, but some. And you're right, when making my list I had to think pretty hard about shorter 5.8 and under routes. Not many.

fatdad wrote:OMG, you waited TWO hours to get on Snake Dike?! That just seems crazy, but I guess the unfortunate thing is that if you've already done the hike, you're kind of committed.

Anyways, I think dr has gotten remarkably few responses to his original question, so let me offer the following:

Harry Daley Route, 5.8, 2 pitches
Bishop's Terrace, 5.8
Lots of one pitch stuff at Knob Hill
Nutcracker, 5.8 (it's about 5 pitches, but hey, it's the Nutcracker)
Jamcrack Route, 5.7 (1st pitch only)
Pine Line, 5.7
Little John, 5.8 (3 pitches)
Commitment, 5.9 (3 pitches with only a couple moves of REALLY soft 5.9 that you can yard past)
Snake Dike is well worth doing if time/conditions permit
Munginella, 5.6 (3 pitches)
After Six (5.6, 3 or 4 pitches)

Commitment to Selaginella (sp?) makes for a nice outing.
Braille Book if it's not too cold/shitty weatherwise (it's a tad off the valley floor).

Pine Line- .7 (bring offsets if you have them)
The Grack (right?)- .6- splitter hands, a lot of fun.
Munginella- fun .6 (stiff for a .6, I thought)
Harry Daly- .8
Bishop's Terrace- perhaps the best 5.8 hand crack in the Valley- .8
Ejesta- .8 (if I remember correctly)- great hand jams.
After 6- .7
After 7- .8
Nurdle- heady .8

I'd be hesitant to recommend Braille Book for a .8 leader- solid Valley .8 above sometimes sketchy pro'. Note I've only done the 1st pitch, but the remainder appears to be similar. Need to go back & do that one, though...

If you're proficient, Royal Arches is an AMAZING climb (.6 or .7- depends on which guidebook (read: old school .6, most call it .7 these days...). Put this one high on your list, & MOVE FAST. You can easily rap' this (by doing this you skip the last pitch), or if you're feeling adventurous, do the North Dome Gully descent (don't slip, & don't do it in the dark)

Better stick the crux mantel on Nutcracker- you can't pull through it on gear, & if you don't stick it, hope you have insurance for the resulting ankle injuries.

Nob Hill has numerous nice lines .6 to .8 (& a one-move wonder .10b with a bolt right at the crux)

Hyadventure wrote:I was able to class 2 the majority of the 7th and 8th pitches.

What does this mean exactly? '3rd classing' is going ropeless. Just curious...

squishy wrote:I have attempted class three routes with just my feet, it's fun and you can laugh at others who need to 3rd class it...

...untill you fall on your ass

I really want to buy that t-shirt that says: "It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

Diggler wrote:

Hyadventure wrote:I was able to class 2 the majority of the 7th and 8th pitches.

What does this mean exactly? '3rd classing' is going ropeless. Just curious...

It means I walked up! I'd call the crux's on those pitches class 3, but if you fall on those easy moves you might not stop until the base of the climb.

Just posted my first article, honoring John Muir, titled Walking with Mr. Muir. I'd be honored if a few of ya' came by and checked it out! Hey, this might be the first time I've been on the California thread...nice place you have here!

I climbed all of Braille Book and didn't think it was sandbagged at 5.8. But it is not a gimme either, and is sustained and intimidating looking. Kind of tricky routefinding just to get to the base but not too difficult once on the climb. Stellar route though. The best 5.8 in the Valley IMHO. The summit of Upper Cathedral too is one of the best also, a Japanese garden to the max.

Have fun. Maybe post next week on this thread when you get back- curious to know your impression of it!

agree with Squishy, the valley is usually stiff for the grade, crag first before you do a multipitch so you can get a feel for the place.

Wish I was going to the big ditch, it's been too long.

I thought the first pitch of Nutcracker was the hardest, but that was before I knew how to jam. Actually, we saw a guy take a spine-chilling fall on the left line start, with the long lieback. He liebacked really high, then buttered off when he finally decided to try placing some pro. The tree caught him, and he walked away bloody but generally okay. I'm scared of liebacks ever since.

So we did the right/center line start, kind of a 5.9 finger crack.

mvs wrote:I thought the first pitch of Nutcracker was the hardest, but that was before I knew how to jam.
So we did the right/center line start, kind of a 5.9 finger crack.

Yeah, that's right off the valley floor, some of the stuff at the very bottom is glacier polished, slippery for the feet.

squishy wrote:alright, so Braille Book this weekend then...what 5.7's I'd done the grack and mung and the easier ones...

Aren't The Grack and Munginella 5.6s? Be safe...