travelin_light wrote:I like how you reckon that fixed anchor you stumbled onto on your "FA" of "Chips, Fingers..." was probably just there just for rapping BTW. Interesting huh! Find anything else up there?

All those "300+ ANCHOR's" were from over 20+ years of REBOLTING PROJECTS that I participated in all over the U.S.

Many of those in NC, Zion, Arches and the RR's.

Big difference again.

That old and deteriorated "fixed <C> HEX anchor" was put there back in the late 80's by Dick Leversee after freeing SP's, Pteradon which is located up and to the left of CFFP when he had to bail quickly in a monster T-Storm. He shared his experience with me after I completed CFFP.

BTW, before I did CFFP and WP's, I spent over six months asking all the Old Timers and anyone that had any routes in the local vicinity if they knew of any previous ascents on my intended line. It's called doing ones homework prior to FAing.

Do your homework lad. Maybe you won't impede onto other peoples routes when FAing yours. Seems ya'll have a habit of doing that shit.

Fascinating the way you are getting all your San Diego Clan boys from the PH.ORG Club on this sight to defend your actions. Now the route is .11a. Pretty amazing how all the folks that have done this route, except for myself and "John", all pertain to your PH.ORG CLUB and they are now "long time" Sierra climbers.

I am done with this bogus shit. Ya'll can justify all ya want and build your ego wad minds to the hilt... PH.ORG.

Like I said, when shit hits the fan after the EI's are completed and if the "Man" shuts that place down, I will do my best to notify the entire planet why it all got "ACCESS DENIED".

See ya....


Oh yeah, Charles, be warned... if you get caught doing any of this route lead bolting escapades around Boulder, i.e. Eldo Cnyn, the Flat Irons etc and even in RMNP, you will most assuredly meet far more stricter consequences than you could ever imagine. They do not tolerate that type horseshit behavior there. They chop with no questions asked. Mark Wilford has got a lot of his staunch protege's running around them parts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tKCPz1VEHg
theres a link to a video Doug Robinson put on youtube of him and some buddies climbing MSMR and he seems to think its pretty rad. About 6 minutes into the video, if you listen really closely, you can hear someone in the background say, "Man, The Chief said this route sucked, he must just be angry at life cause he has a small pecker."

If you watch closely, they also SKIPPED MANY OF & DID NOT CLIP all the bolts....hmmm.


After DR's hypocritical PD gig on the SF of Half Dome, I along with others have lost any respect for him. Especially after his many years of self proclaiming himself to be the God Of Clean Climbing.

Odd how he wrote this long before any of you were born and now turns his back completely on it all.





Not anymore.....

The Chief wrote:Do your homework lad. Maybe you won't impede onto other peoples routes when FAing yours. Seems ya'll have a habit of doing that shit.

Chief. Please explain what you mean by this.

In my world, once is a mistake, and for it to become a habit it has to happen more than once.

Seriously, to what other incident are you referring?

If you can't come up with anything (you can't), please STFU and stop implying we did something that we didn't do.

This is not a question, and this is not fact-checking on the chief's wild rantings, which is all I normally do around here. This is just for fun:

The Chief wrote:The intrusion of any bolt in the high mountains, is simply taking away the virginity and purity of nature.

The Chief wrote:there are only 6 original hand drilled bolts ... All to safely rappel off the route... I returned three weeks later and replaced two of the pins with bolts.

Exactly Nate.

He says bolts in the mountains are bad and but he has no problem putting them HIMSELF.

Too bad of his slander is starting to involve people not even here to defend themselves.

BTW Chief, if you look in the video those unclipped bolts appear to be directionals for the third follower - please. Was that part your referring to before or after where Andrew can be heard saying "THAT WAS BAD FUCKIN ASS!"

The Chief wrote:"One of the top ten Pitches in the High Sierra"..... says who?

Maybe ya'll need to get out and do some real High Sierra Routes.

Yup Chief is right, we are all total n00bs who don't know shit about the Sierra. I'd like to see his list of top 10 pitches in the High Sierra. I bet they are all his chossy FAs with 20 mile approaches. Not that there's anything wrong with that. It just doesn't gell with my definition of "high quality". But to each their own.

poorboy44 wrote: I'd like to see his list of top 10 pitches in the High Sierra. I bet they are all his chossy FAs with 20 mile approaches.

As a matter of fact...

1) P8 & 9 of "Edge of Time Arete" The Citadel

2) P8 of "South Arete Direct" Angels Wing

3) P7 of "NB" Merriam

4) P3 of "DE Face" 7 Gables N Peak

5) P7 & 8 "SE Face" Clyde Minaret

6) P5 "NB" Mt. Goode

7) P10 "Dark Star" TC

8 ) P7, 8 & 9 "NF" Mt. Chamberlin

9) P4 "Milktoast Chimney" RB Tower

10) P5 "WP" GP Spire


Everyone of these are "Clean" Trad Sierra lines. The above list is in no special order. They are all Classic and pure. There are many others that should be on this list. All of them are all Clean of any lead bolts & pure Trad as well.

The Chief wrote:Do your homework lad. Maybe you won't impede onto other peoples routes when FAing yours. Seems ya'll have a habit of doing that shit.

Chief. Please explain what you mean by this.

In my world, once is a mistake, and for it to become a habit it has to happen more than once.

Seriously, to what other incident are you referring?

If you can't come up with anything (you can't), please STFU and stop implying we did something that we didn't do.

I've got a lot of respect for all yal. But everyone needs to move on.

Power drilling was a mistake, acknowledged.

Chief has a passion about this, one that causes him to overlook the obvious contradictions of his own bolting in the Sierra.

The insiders/outsiders pissing match is as integral to this sport as anything.

Chief, thanks for the effort you put into access and relationships with the landowners.

In that context, everyone of you needs to realize a PUBLIC pissing match like this negatively impacts the land managers' view of our community. "The ones who live here in CA can't even get along with each other!"

brandon wrote:I've got a lot of respect for all yal. But everyone needs to move on.

Power drilling was a mistake, acknowledged.

Chief has a passion about this, one that causes him to overlook the obvious contradictions of his own bolting in the Sierra.

The insiders/outsiders pissing match is as integral to this sport as anything.

Chief, thanks for the effort you put into access and relationships with the landowners.

In that context, everyone one you needs to realize a PUBLIC pissing match like this negatively impacts the land managers' view of our community. "The ones who live here in CA can't even get along with each other!"

Thank you and point taken. I'm perfectly willing to STFU myself, but when Chief makes untrue accusations in a public forum, I have to speak up.

glahhg wrote: I'm perfectly willing to STFU myself, but when Chief makes untrue accusations in a public forum, I have to speak up.

Why? Anyone that has an interest, and that you care if they care, you probably know.

Reasoning hasn't worked. Name calling and profanity just fanning the flames.... everyone of your replies provides an entre for (demands?) a response.

Drama queens all.

DMT, I'm with you. Never reported routes, until others passed my contact info to Lindsay Griffin and the AAC. I've seen a couple of my routes reported as first ascents by others in the AAJ now that I look. I take it as a compliment that I left no trace of passage there. I'm sure I've followed in other invisible footsteps on 'virgin' ground as well.

Brandon and DMT,

I've been following this thread and having the same kinds of feelings. I stayed off because I didn't want to get caught up in the meatgrinder.

Thankyou both for jumping in...

As for the top ten list, do I get to include The Needles? Maybe not "High Sierra," but certainly part of the range, some of the best climbs in the range, and an area which attracts some great climbers from around the world... Still bold new trad routes going in too.

A tip for y'all (whoever you are,)

DMT has it right. Spray sucks. And yeah I know "wilderness" boundaries seem arbitrary to a lot of us but we live in a brave new world where government is really feeling it's oats in terms of restricting us citizens, so let's all play by the rules, not fight about it in public forums, and quietly go do some climbing.

SELLOUTS...

There's lots of em these days.

I refuse to be on that list...regardless of the shit that comes my way.

Thus, this entire OP is illogical and has no place in this game...

Everyone should just do as damn well please, that is their right.

There is no honor among thieves is and should be the law of the land.