I've read many citations of this seminal article from the 1931 Sierra Club Bulletin but never found it reprinted. I'm stuck inside on a rainy afternoon here so I scanned and posted it here:
"On the Use and Management of the Rope in Rock Work"
When I was a student at UC Irvine back in the 70's I used to stake out a study area in the library next to a shelf of old Sierra Club Bulletins. Apparently someone had donated a set of Bulletins dating from about 1915 to 1970. I used to read these in between study sessions. Over the course of my 5 years in college I'm sure I read then all. I remember the Underhill article. A trip down memory lane.
Finding and reading this article was the key to discovering what I had found in the mess of old photos that came from Glen Dawson and Lewis Clark. It led me to Bill Alsup's book, Missing in the Minarets and beyond. By the way, Missing is soon to be reprinted and I urge everyone to find a copy.