by Mountainjeff » Mon May 10, 2010 4:49 am
by ExcitableBoy » Mon May 10, 2010 4:17 pm
by Mountainjeff » Tue May 11, 2010 7:52 am
Autoxfil wrote:Snow only, no glaciers? Simulclimbing with pickets and tiblocs?
by mvs » Tue May 11, 2010 9:52 am
Mountainjeff wrote:Autoxfil wrote:Snow only, no glaciers? Simulclimbing with pickets and tiblocs?
Mostly just snow climbs in the Olympic Range in Washington. There would be very occasional moderate glacier travel. This rope caught my attention because for many moderate snow traverses where, due to poor runouts, roping up and simulclimbing would be desirable, a 60 meter, 10 mm rope would seem a bit overkill (for a two man team). Pickets would most likely be used.
by ExcitableBoy » Tue May 11, 2010 2:25 pm
mvs wrote:Mountainjeff wrote:Autoxfil wrote:Snow only, no glaciers? Simulclimbing with pickets and tiblocs?
Mostly just snow climbs in the Olympic Range in Washington. There would be very occasional moderate glacier travel. This rope caught my attention because for many moderate snow traverses where, due to poor runouts, roping up and simulclimbing would be desirable, a 60 meter, 10 mm rope would seem a bit overkill (for a two man team). Pickets would most likely be used.
I wouldn't use a single twin for anything, but I definitely used a single double rope for many adventures in the Cascades. It's a pretty common pattern to have a glacier followed by a few pitches of 4th-low 5th to the summit. You just double the rope and simul-climb or make static leads as needed with the 25 meters rope. Yes, get 50 m if you can still find it...it is enough.
by Autoxfil » Tue May 11, 2010 3:02 pm
by mvs » Tue May 11, 2010 4:41 pm
Autoxfil wrote:Using the same systems as SH is a bad idea for people who value staying alive over pushing the limits of alpinism. He solos hard ice and rock on 7-8kM peaks - that doesn't make it a good idea. He recently broke a ton of bones and nearly died taking a roped fall. That's not a safety system I want.
Autoxfil wrote:Anyway, his skinny rope was a half, not a twin.
Autoxfil wrote:A twin will catch a sliding fall just fine. But, the thin cord is extremely susceptible to damage. A good half is only very slightly heavier, and much tougher in abrasive environments.
Autoxfil wrote:In either case, trash the rope if it catches a real fall. Use Tiblocs on the pickets/screws to potect the leader from a slip by the second. Having the weaker climber lead is often a good idea as well - when simul climbing the mantra should be "the second must
not fall".
Autoxfil wrote:If weight is the issue, invest in dry-treatment. A 9 mm that repels water will be lighter than a soaking wet 8mm on that last pitch of the day.
Autoxfil wrote:I ended up with a short 9mm single. It's more versatile, more durable, and easier to jug out of a crevasse on. Gear Express offers odd-length ropes at good savings.
by jniehof » Tue May 11, 2010 11:21 pm
kayakerSS wrote:Sorry to be the noob here, but what is the difference between a half and a twin? I guess I always thought that they were the same thing.
by Autoxfil » Wed May 12, 2010 12:21 am
by Diego Sahagún » Wed May 12, 2010 12:57 am
Mountainjeff wrote:What are your thoughts on using a twin rope, such as the Edelweiss Discovery singly for moderate snow climbs. Maybe for something where there is no danger of a high impact lead fall, but protection would be desirable.
by drpw » Wed May 12, 2010 4:09 am
Autoxfil wrote:Note that it's traditionally considered a Bad Idea to use doubles (halves) as twins - this increases the force on the piece if you fall.
by rhyang » Wed May 12, 2010 4:43 am
Autoxfil wrote:BUT, Mammut says all their doubles can be used as twins
PMI Verglas 8.1mm x 60m Dry Half/Twin Rope Specs
Weight 42.6 grams per meter
Dimensions 8.1mm x 60m
Dry treatment Dry core and sheath
Impact force (half / twin) 5.2 / 8.9 kilonewtons
UIAA falls (half / twin) 8 / 18
Dynamic elongation (half / twin) 35 / 24 percent
Static elongation (half / twin) 8.9 / 7.2 percent
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