http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2010/06/ ... gonia.html

One word for this behavior.....

PATHETIC!

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/news ... ssor-bolts

^^ some more on this subject

Sent 'em an e-mail. I've always loved that Messner quote! ^^^^^

What a bizarre epilogue to the Maestri controversy!

The Chief wrote:BULLSHIT!

You mean Red bullshit

It's depressing to know that even climbing is no longer immune to hotshot kids thinking they can do whatever the hell they want.

Regardless of the film crew placing the bolts instead of him....it was his climb...he could have told them no.

Shame

Sounds to me like Red Bull needs to pay to have the bolts removed.

My guess is, it's symptomatic of a changing world. As in "Get Used to It".

Like the dumbing down of the internet. In '96, being on the 'net was pretty edgy and cool. Not everyone had the resources to use it. They've since dumbed down everything to instant messaging standards. So it's as easy to use as a telephone.

In climbing, you have children, the phyically challenged etc demanding to be allowed to go everywhere. So bolting up the big-name routes is probably inevitable as more and more people want to add it to their resume. Something to spray about on FaceBook. So the big guiding services will bolt it up citing "safety" concerns.

John Duffield wrote:My guess is, it's symptomatic of a changing world. As in "Get Used to It".

Like the dumbing down of the internet. In '96, being on the 'net was pretty edgy and cool. Not everyone had the resources to use it. They've since dumbed down everything to instant messaging standards. So it's as easy to use as a telephone.

In climbing, you have children, the phyically challenged etc demanding to be allowed to go everywhere. So bolting up the big-name routes is probably inevitable as more and more people want to add it to their resume. Something to spray about on FaceBook. So the big guiding services will bolt it up citing "safety" concerns.

NO! I won't get used to it.

I have never placed bolts, used bolts, or suggested that my kids use them, let alone place them.

John Duffield wrote:In climbing, you have children, the phyically challenged etc demanding to be allowed to go everywhere. So bolting up the big-name routes is probably inevitable as more and more people want to add it to their resume. Something to spray about on FaceBook. So the big guiding services will bolt it up citing "safety" concerns.

Just like making Everest accessible to anyone that has the money to get on it.....I get ya.


Regardless, neither practice is right IMO. It all boils down to someone making a buck.

Besides retrobolting any route is totally bad form and only for shit mongers.

Bullshit. The Alpinist article sums it up well.

Lama: "Cesare Maestri, who made the first ascent in 1970, left an entire highway of bolts and pitons in the mountain's south-east face, which has nothing to do with today's climbing ethics... Back in the days of old school mountaineering only conquering the peak was important—not so much how this goal was reached."

"I don't believe that we did anything wrong, as for everything done we had the permission of the people in charge," Lama added.

Young or no, is he really that stupid? The irony comparing this situation with Maestri's boltmania is at once amusing & sickening. 'Look at me everyone, look at me climb this hard mountain!!! (I'll do whatever it takes)'

I don't care how hard he climbs- grow up & get a clue. This is not some sport climb on a choss pile, where you can do whatever you want.

Red Bull relies on the knowledge, expertise, & yes, judgment of its climbers & those who set up these kinds of publicity events. In this case I put the bad decision making with the leaders of the team (i.e. the older guides), but ultimately since they're paying for it, Red Bull should be held accountable. Hopefully they'll learn from this experience- chop the bolts, send 'em to Austria with a bill for the service, & don't let the crew set foot in the park again.

I'm going to send Red BUll a note indicating my position. I would urge anybody who disagrees with this instance to do the same.