knoback wrote:"Life is short. The Art is long. Experience is difficult." Hippocrates said that about medicine, but it's true of climbing, too. The basic physics does matter, and if you don't understand it, you are going to f-up. You just have to avoid applying it too broadly. That seems to be Chief's basic point. Anecdotal evidence alone is just bullshit. "Fall on Rock/Ice, Failed to Place Adequate Protection" - this kind of discussion is way more useful than those sorts of insights from ANAM. Thanks for the analysis y'all.
Pheeeeeeeeeeeew.... thanks Knoback. Thought maybe any sorts out there with any experiential climbing and real good falling time may have actually gone astray.
It's not a matter of being right or wrong nor keeping score.
It's a matter or sharing real time experiences with all the variables for me. Not what is put down on paper, tested in the control enviro of a lab then written in "the text book".
Bottomline, each and every situ and scenario is completely different. As are each and every individual that ties into a rope and gets on the rock. Current time variables play a big factor in every incident in the end and none are the same as the other, none. Nor can a text book formula mathematical analysis answer be applied to them all. Impossible.
But some just don't get that side of the story I guess. They would rather pat one another on the back in agreement and not be the one to stand up and throw in the proverbial wrench named reality. Nope. That doesn't go well when shoulder to shoulder within the tribe.
If they did, they'd be banished to the corner or even tossed out the door and deemed a lunatic.....oh well.
As for the OP, remember, nothing is always what some or all may perceive it to be. Appears the latest reality of variables is a broken hold that may be the match which initiated this particular conflag.