Aconcagua - Who's Going?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
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Brad Marshall

 
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Aconcagua - Who's Going?

by Brad Marshall » Fri Jul 23, 2010 2:20 am

Interest appeared to be pretty thin last year. Who's planning give it a shot during the upcoming season?

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ScottyP

 
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by ScottyP » Fri Jul 23, 2010 5:40 pm

I am looking at going this year. Along with another trip to Denali in May. Scott

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Fri Jul 23, 2010 5:57 pm

Another trip to Denali? You're a sucker for punishment like me. :lol:

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Kiefer

 
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by Kiefer » Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:54 pm

Brad,
I'm looking at finally heading down to Acon the first week in January. Would prefer to go earlier but then the GF couldn't do it due to school.
Were you thinking of setting up a trip or getting the logistics rolling again for those interested?

Also currently planning & working on returning to Alaska in early to mid May for about a month as well. West Rib Route...And an attempt on Moose's Tooth with Dickey and Barril thrown in for good measure, $700+ (flight) for one mountain is stiff.
I can't believe it, but my GF found a route here, in Colorado similar in nature to Ham & Egg's. And it's in the IPW!

Although, it could be just an excuse to have more pancakes at the Roadhouse...hmmm....pancakes.

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:27 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:Maybe will go...when is the best time?
Also wanted to go to Denali in late May.


November to February for Aco. Early May on Denali is great.

Good luck.

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:33 pm

Kiefer Thomas wrote:Brad,
I'm looking at finally heading down to Acon the first week in January. Would prefer to go earlier but then the GF couldn't do it due to school.
Were you thinking of setting up a trip or getting the logistics rolling again for those interested?


Either if there was enough interest. Hate seeing people pay $4000 US to climb and only have two summit days. I've had a few people contact me regarding this and others just looking for info to put together their own climb this year.

$700 for a flight is expensive but it's all relative to what you truely want to do.

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:35 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:It will have to be lots of planning. From climbing partners to logistics, to just getting the time off. Hope it works out. Will most likely attempt Denali if anything since it is closer, tougher, and one I am more interested in.


If you want any info on either just email me at admin@adventureclimbing.ca.

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EastKing

 
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by EastKing » Sat Jul 24, 2010 8:35 am

If the money is there I will be there in 2012!

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tommarchall

 
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by tommarchall » Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:13 pm

I should be there early December alone and looking for someone to talk to, haha. When are you planning to head down Brad?

cheers,
T

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:02 pm

No firm plans to go down yet. Don't worry if you're down there by yourself. There will be plenty of great people around to talk to. Which route were you planning to take?

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tommarchall

 
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by tommarchall » Mon Jul 26, 2010 2:43 am

I'm looking forward to meeting some people. I don't really mind a little solitude now and then but it could get long. anyhow I'll be on the traverse if anyone's looking for a Canuck to talk to around mid-december.

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markhallam

 
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Aconcagua 2011

by markhallam » Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:23 am

Hello, I'm new to SP & learning how things work.

I'm coming from UK to attempt Aconcagua, climbing solo & fund raising for a charity concerned with Hepatitis C. Will be over for the month of February 2011. I plan to try a 'Polish' route, either the direct if either me or conditions are right, but more likely the traverse. Last & only time I went to 7000m was in 1987 on Broad Peak, but my Ox sat was in the upper 80's % on Mont Blanc summit at 4810m recently so here's hoping!

I would be interested to know who I might bump into - and also for any comments from anyone who has been on the Polish Direct.

Mark

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tommarchall

 
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by tommarchall » Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:27 pm

Here's another question for those who've been before. How crowded can I expect the Polish Glacier/traverse route to be if I'm there in early December (early meaning base camp around the tenth of December)?

cheers,
T

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Brad Marshall

 
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Re: Aconcagua 2011

by Brad Marshall » Sun Aug 01, 2010 1:28 pm

markhallam wrote:- and also for any comments from anyone who has been on the Polish Direct.

Mark


Hi Mark and welcome to SP!

The condition of the Polish Direct varies quite a bit from season to seaon. Some years it's a staircase, others an ice slide. If you're there in February I wouldn't expect there to be a great deal of snow left so it could be icy. Try contacting Fernando Grajales or Aymara Expeditions in January to get info on the route. You can also talk to the park rangers while you're there. The nice thing about the Vacas Valley side is that if the direct isn't in shape you can always do the traverse.

Good luck, enjoy and have a safe climb.

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Sun Aug 01, 2010 1:41 pm

tommarchall wrote:Here's another question for those who've been before. How crowded can I expect the Polish Glacier/traverse route to be if I'm there in early December (early meaning base camp around the tenth of December)?

cheers,
T


I wouldn't expect too many people there in early December but you certainly won't be alone. If you want to get away from the crowd up higher there are several campsites on the other side of the glacier that are more remote and provide much better protection from the wind that not many climbers use. When you're on the normal trail above 18,000 look for a slightly less-used trail higher up on your left as you're ascending. This site is slightly higher than the normal Camp 2 but there's no liquid water around so you'll either be melting ice or walking across the glacier to the ponds amongst the other tents.

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