Recommend me an intro peak in the Tetons

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Northern Rockies. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Northern Rockies Climbing Partners section.
User Avatar
Morlow

 
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:29 am
Thanked: 7 times in 7 posts

Recommend me an intro peak in the Tetons

by Morlow » Fri Jul 30, 2010 4:54 am

I am going to have a day free (hopefully) to do a day hike on Aug. 20. I am shuttling a friend to the South Boundary Trail so I am going to be near the Tetons after the drop-off. I am looking for a shorter class 2-3 hike, since I may not get to the trail until 9ish, hopefully sooner, but times aren't finalized on the shuttle yet.

I was looking at The Jaw as a possibility. Any other options?

User Avatar
chugach mtn boy

 
Posts: 942
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:54 pm
Thanked: 224 times in 129 posts

by chugach mtn boy » Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:04 pm

The Jaw and St John are good thoughts but you might be pushing it to summit before the storms roll in, with your late start plus the need to get across Jenny Lake. Middle T is also a big day with your 9 am start. Others to look at:
Disappointment Peak--a nice scramble, same size as the Jaw but you get there faster.
Storm Point--if you go up Symmetry couloir, this is a shorter climb and shorter day, just 3000 vertical, nice summit, fun but easy scrambling.

User Avatar
b.

 
Posts: 2245
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 12:34 pm
Thanked: 18 times in 18 posts

by b. » Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:25 pm

Buck is a good one. The East Ridge is easy class 4. Static peak is pretty much a trail hike.

no avatar
Byran

 
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2010 5:23 am
Thanked: 2 times in 2 posts

Re: Recommend me an intro peak in the Tetons

by Byran » Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:28 pm

Morlow wrote:I am going to have a day free (hopefully) to do a day hike on Aug. 20. I am shuttling a friend to the South Boundary Trail so I am going to be near the Tetons after the drop-off. I am looking for a shorter class 2-3 hike, since I may not get to the trail until 9ish, hopefully sooner, but times aren't finalized on the shuttle yet.

I was looking at The Jaw as a possibility. Any other options?


Mt Teewinot is easily done with a 9am start if you go fast. The line to the summit is direct and it's nearly impossible to get off-route. Probably the easiest of the major summits in the Teton Range. The east face is officially Class 4, but you could maybe make it Class 3 if you have good route finding. Before late Aug an ice axe or trekking pole or something is useful for getting up the col with the worshiper and idol.

User Avatar
chugach mtn boy

 
Posts: 942
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:54 pm
Thanked: 224 times in 129 posts

Re: Recommend me an intro peak in the Tetons

by chugach mtn boy » Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:51 pm

Byran wrote:Mt Teewinot is easily done with a 9am start if you go fast.

It's almost 6000 vertical feet and some of it not super efficient terrain. Yup, you could be there by mid-day but most people would find themselves summiting more like mid-afternoon, which is a bit late in the Tetons.

Byran wrote: ... it's nearly impossible to get off-route.

Hmmm, I kind of agree, kind of disagree. You're not likely to get WAY off route, but it's easy to get into more advanced terrain than maybe Morlow should attempt. On other forums he's described his experience and it sounds like class 3 would be the top for him at this stage, and it's challenging to keep Teewinot at that level--most people get into some 4th class and some wander into a little easy 5th.

Byran wrote: Probably the easiest of the major summits in the Teton Range.

Gotta disagree with you there. Middle and South Tetons are way easier and the routefinding on them is easier too. And in my opinion Buck is easier. (St John, Disappointment, Wister and Woodring are easier too, but some would call them second-tier peaks.)

User Avatar
chugach mtn boy

 
Posts: 942
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:54 pm
Thanked: 224 times in 129 posts

by chugach mtn boy » Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:59 am

studmuffin451 wrote:Not to steal the thread, but what is an estimate on the elevation gain and round trip mileage for Middle Teton? i didn't see either of those on the route or mountain pages.

Our own Alan Ellis says: "The Middle Teton was about a seven mile climb, 6000 feet of elevation gain, and took at least 7-9 hours from the trailhead." (I think you can shave a bit off his time, but it's quite a ways up). More here: http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/169072/Eric-Chokes-On-Clif-Bar-Bags-Middle-Teton-To-Save-Self-.html

User Avatar
aglane

 
Posts: 170
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:16 am
Thanked: 12 times in 10 posts

by aglane » Sat Jul 31, 2010 2:02 am

Many of the recommendations above are decidedly optimistic for someone requesting class 2-3 trips not starting before 9 a.m. And as to going off-route on Teewinot, see the latest Accidents in No. American Mountaineering! My copy arrived today.

None of the high peaks is an easy short day, and leaving at 9:00 boosts substantially the risk of the afternoon storms.

The Jaw is a pretty good idea, and the approach up Hanging Canyon past three lakes is a joy in itself, the views on the way and finally at Lake of the Crags just spectacular, the hike a reasonably steady gain with one slightly spicey short rock wall not so high up, class 4 certainly if it were more exposed. Trail to Lake of the Crags is clear (but go up the wall on the left where it looks like there might be reason to continue up a short gully/chimney). The peak is not a necessity, and can have route-finding tangles, read guidebook closely. The boat across Jenny Lake is quite a time-saver if the lines are not too long.

Good luck, and don't take on too much for your first go-round in the Tetons: it's all too good to build in a disappointment (and Disappointment does have the SE ridge route, but it's 4900 feet and 12 miles, class 3-4).

User Avatar
Morlow

 
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:29 am
Thanked: 7 times in 7 posts

by Morlow » Sat Jul 31, 2010 3:32 am

My apologies, I should have posted that Middle Teton and Buck are both on the agenda for later in the season. Disappointment seems like a good one but for someone with zero routefinding experience I am not sure that is a good one for me to solo. The Jaw was more appealing because, at least from the SP description, it sounds like an easier route.

Anyone happen to have mileage to the summit of The Jaw? Or anyone want to vouch for the ease of ascending Disappointment for a new climber?

There is also a good chance I won't even attempt any peaks if I can't get an earlier start. I will see if I can talk my friend into an earlier start, because starting at 9 isn't going to work for even The Jaw I don't think. 7 at the latest.

User Avatar
builttospill

 
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:53 pm
Thanked: 5 times in 4 posts

by builttospill » Sat Jul 31, 2010 5:54 am

I wouldn't do Disappointment. I think the easiest route is harder than you're looking for and I know people have gotten confused by it before (we ran into a group that was stymied down low when we were descending).

Maybe think about Static Peak. It's a straightforward hike, no real chance of getting off route at all. It's a high peak but if you're a reasonably quick hiker you can get it done without a really early start. That would be my recommendation for a peak with a late start (I started at like 11 am when I did it, which wasn't that wise, but worked out fine).

User Avatar
Morlow

 
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:29 am
Thanked: 7 times in 7 posts

by Morlow » Sat Jul 31, 2010 3:07 pm

I'll definitely keep Static Peak in mind. It looks like a trail goes almost all the way to the summit.

User Avatar
chugach mtn boy

 
Posts: 942
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:54 pm
Thanked: 224 times in 129 posts

by chugach mtn boy » Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:35 pm

Morlow wrote:Or anyone want to vouch for the ease of ascending Disappointment for a new climber?


For Disappointment, I think your best bet would be the Lake Ledges route. You take the big, fast trail to Amphitheater Lake. Across the lake you'll see a snow couloir slashing directly up the mountain dead ahead. Don't go up the snow--it gets a little steep at the top, even though it might look ok to you. Instead, weave up the grassy ledges to the left (south) of the couloir. I did it with my wife, who is not a daredevil, and it was fine. But you need to take your time on this part. From the top of the couloir, it gets easier and you can climb fast again (class 2) till the very top. Routefinding is pretty easy on the way up. Take stock of where you went, so you can do the same on the way down.

I was the one who suggested Disappointment, partly because I thought it was easier in terms of finding your way than the Jaw, which you were considering, and partly because the appoach hike is fast and you have the late start. But the others may be right that Disappointment solo will be a bit challenging for you at this point. On the other hand, Static might bore you--there is no scrambling at all, just a walk over grass from the trail.

The perfect peak for someone with Yellowstone peakbagging experience but no more might be Mt. Woodring, up Paintbrush Canyon. You start from String Lake and hike the fast trail up Paintbrush Canyon, and then go up more or less anywhere that looks good on the south side. I didn't suggest it befor because the approach hike is a couple of miles longer, but truth be told I don't know that it would take you any longer than Static Peak or some of the other ones people have suggested. Watch the weather though--with your 9 am start you won't get to the top till early afternoon.

User Avatar
Morlow

 
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:29 am
Thanked: 7 times in 7 posts

by Morlow » Sun Aug 01, 2010 4:01 am

Thanks again. Mt. Woodring looks like it could potentially be a good one. Have you done that one yourself? How would you rate it? Class 2-3? Also, when you say start from the south, head up near Holly Lake or more along the approach trail from the canyon?

I will also see if I can convince my friend to do the shuttle earlier, since I definitely don't want to be anywhere near a summit in the afternoon. I'm just trying to make plans just in case I have time to do a summit, and to familiarize myself with the Tetons some since I haven't even made it down there yet this year.

User Avatar
chugach mtn boy

 
Posts: 942
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:54 pm
Thanked: 224 times in 129 posts

by chugach mtn boy » Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:58 am

Morlow wrote:Thanks again. Mt. Woodring looks like it could potentially be a good one. Have you done that one yourself? How would you rate it? Class 2-3? Also, when you say start from the south, head up near Holly Lake or more along the approach trail from the canyon?
I have done it (I have done all the ones I've posted about), but in the case of Woodring it was a long time ago. I think I went up on the SE corner and came down more or less straight south, but I just don't remember Holly Lake at all. It was late October and although the S slopes were clear of snow, the lake would have been frozen, so maybe it didn't make much impression. Anyway, both routes were definitely class 2. If I remember right, the views were quite excellent. I wonder where those pictures are now ...

User Avatar
Morlow

 
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:29 am
Thanked: 7 times in 7 posts

by Morlow » Mon Aug 02, 2010 12:40 am

Cool, it sounds like a good climb for my level. I think Mt. Woodring will be my plan for now. If I get a late start or the weather looks bad I will just wander around Paintbrush, since I'm sure that is a beautiful area even if you aren't on top of a mountain. :wink:

User Avatar
chugach mtn boy

 
Posts: 942
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:54 pm
Thanked: 224 times in 129 posts

by chugach mtn boy » Mon Aug 02, 2010 1:26 am

One good thing about Woodring is that, unlike most Tetons, you climb it from an angle where you can see out to the west so you are less likely to be surprised by the weather. If there are no storms coming in, go for it.

Next

Return to Northern Rockies (ID, MT, WY)

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests