Lightest I've seen besides said rope are the Sterling Nano 9.2 and Beal Joker 9.1 which are both 53 g/m while the Mammut Serenity 8.9 is 52 g/m. As far as cams I suppose Metolius TCUs and Powercams although you sacrifice range versus BD Camalots.

Metolius Monster 9.2 mm is 53 grams/meter.

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/monster ... _rope.html

They're sold as "tendon" ropes in Europe and Canada

http://www.mytendon.com/rope-tendon-master-9-2#scroll

mattski wrote:thanks for the info there just so bulky the 9.1 and 9.2s

A 9.1mm rope may not be any fatter or bulkier than an 8.9mm rope. Here is why: The UIAA allows a tolerance of +/- 0.3 mm. The upshot is that 8.9mm rope can actually be 9.1mm. Using grams/meter as a rubric is far more precise.

In this case the Mammut Serenity is 52 g/m whereas 9.1 and 9.2mm ropes from four different manufactures are 53 grams/m. So the Mammut Serenity appears to be the lightest single rope so may also be the least bulky. There are other considerations when choosing a rope like impact force. This is an important quality in a rope, the lower the impact force the 'softer' the catch and more importantly the lower the impact on the protection. Something to consider if you are climbing on marginal gear like ice screws in questionable ice, KB pitons in vertical cracks, any gear on limestone, etc.

Interestingly the Mammut Serenity (the lightest rope) has HIGHER impact force (9.5 kn) than many 53 g/m ropes. For example the Metolious Monster 9.2 weighing 53 g/m has an impact force of only 6.8 kn.

Other things to consider is the sheath construction (single pic vs double pic) which can change sheath durability, rope handling qualities (stiff vs soft), and durability. Also different manufactures use different water proofing methods which have different durabilities and efficacy.

See Jim Nelson’s spreadsheet here for an informative comparison of many popular ropes:

http://promountainsports.com/blogfiles/ ... mpared.pdf


As for cams, you can choose the lightest cams and sacrifice both strength and expansion range. It appears that if you want the best of all worlds (light, strong, large expansion range) then DMM Dragons are your best bet. Another concern is how easy the cam is to manipulate and I personally prefer the BD thumb loop to the milled DMM Dragon lobe.

Here is how it all shakes out:

Manufacturer Size Expansion Range (mm) Weight (g) Strength (kn)

Camalot #1 30.2 - 52.1 134 14
Metolious Master #6 32.4 - 48 110 10
Metolious Power #6 32.5 - 48 98 10
Wild Country Tech #2.5 33 - 55 122 14
DMM Dragon #3 29 - 50 119 14

A full set of Dragon cams saves 58 grams (or a hair over 2 ounces). Personally, I skip the morning latte and scone and take the C4's and enjoy their smooth operation and ease of placement.

Edelrid Swift is an 8.9 dry rope. The Pro Shield treatment protects the core and sheath against grime and wetness, while the Thermo Shield gives you more flexibility.
Dragon Cams? errrrrr Go for the MasterCams!

Deb wrote:Edelrid Swift is an 8.9 dry rope. The Pro Shield treatment protects the core and sheath against grime and wetness, while the Thermo Shield gives you more flexibility.
Dragon Cams? errrrrr Go for the MasterCams!

+1 Deb.

Edelrid cords are the wave of the future and kick ass! Got four of em now.

+1 on the Master Cams as well.

ExcitibleBoy wrote:A full set of Dragon cams saves 58 grams (or a hair over 2 ounces).

That's only half the story, though. The extensible sling seldom requires additional extension. I was among the many who were disappointed by DMM's late decision to give up the thumb loop, but after using a couple of Dragons (green and red) for a couple of months, I have to say that their thumb rest works remarkably well. You cannot compare it to the ones on the Tech Friends or on old-style Camalots. All in all, I like the Dragons. (I also like the C4s.)

Why not buying a Mammut 8.9 mm rope

BTW, is this a news?