Hej,

Me and my friends are planning to go to the Pamir/Tian Shan this summer (July/August), but the Pamir / Tian Shan is big ! So where to go.

Who we are and what we want to do:
We are 3 guys with many hiking-experience, but limited mountaineering experience, but we all had some glacier rescuing courses and do know how to walk on a glacier, handle a rope, climbed some easy summits…

We want to make a high altitude trekking about 10 days in Pamir/Tian Shan, with the possibility to climb some non technical >5000m summit or maybe even 6000m?
We prefer to hike in remote (not crowded, though I think this is probably not such an issue in the entire region) area with lovely sceneries on the high peaks (of course seeing one of the snow leopard-peaks is plus).

Currently I am more tending towards Tian Shan (Muztag area) around Khan Tengri, Kirgistan (e.g. Dzhergalan – engilchek) (as discribed in trekking in Russia by Frith Maier).

So If anybody has some more suggestions, experiences.


Thanks a lot,
Brecht

Dear Jappata, that's all my course alone in Kyrgystan, somes are not completly documented but I'm working actually on it, sorry this is in French

http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/22820 ... han-tengri

http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/22820 ... oo-ou-maid

http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/22953 ... ka-ratseka

http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/23028 ... ichechekei

http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/23033 ... c-face-sud


Peak Petka 6120 is a little mountain between Peak Chapaev 6376) and Khan Tengri (6995). Don't talk about Khan tengri so easyly this is a hard mountain that need numerous years of experience. I have 30 years of it and I still considering it as a very serious goal !

Pic Petka is an easy climb for a one day shot from the camp III on the normal route of the Khan Tengri. T

And for a perfect training of high altitude, I recommend yo to do by your own the trip through the south Engilchek from Maida-Dyr to Base camps of Khan Tengri a 50 km walk along one of the longest glacier in the world. I've doneit totally solo, it needs five days of walk, no particular alpine material, just good trekking choes. I could give you more detail and the entire precise map if you mail me to the following. henrilevequehanoi@gmail.com

It's a great experience to do it by your own, not so expensive, only to hire a 4x4 to Ak-Jailoo, then start the trek, It is possible to bring more alpine materials in the base camp arranging to bring them only by helico from Maida-Dyr, starting the trek from Ak Jailo, join the base camp in 5 days by the Engilchek glacier. Then getting the high altitude alpine material (send from the helico) and then directly start the normal route of Khan Tengri until camp III (5800). Then climb the Pic Petka 6120, and if you're on a great physical health, trying the Khan Tengri, but it is more difficult althougth there is fixed ropes on it, it's a hardest alpine target !

You can do exactly the same by your own on the Peak Lenin, but due to tragical events this year, I have change to the north area. I plan to return to Peak Lenin on summer 2012 with my wife and my little children

Henri

henrileveque wrote: Don't talk about Khan tengri so easyly this is a hard mountain that need numerous years of experience. I have 30 years of it and I still considering it as a very serious goal !

Oh I don't consider Khan Tengri as an easy mountain and we are not planning an attempt on KT, we are considering a trekking in the area, no technical (rock)climbing.

Regards,
Brecht

Dear all,

Thanks for the replies (especially the reports by Henri).

We are more and more tending towards the trek from Dzhergalan towards the egilchek glacier and then try to climb a not to technical moutain in the area and return to Maida adyr. Like the track you can find here http://nl.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=23335.

I also read that there is/was the possibility to go down the river with rafts? Anybody has any information about that?
And you need a border permit for the area, but can you only get it in Bishkek whereas we would fly to Almaty and probably not pass in Bishkek.

Thanks,
Brecht